Fashion designer Anita Dongre: 'My new vegan line is plastic-free, biodegradable and looks and feels absolutely like leather'

Anita Dongre (left) with her new plastic-free, cruelty-free collection: (clockwise from top, centre) 'Birds Of A Feather' crossbody bag; Champagne Gold glass-beaded bag; the 'Nocturnal Black' Haathi Belt; Nocturnal Black glass-beaded bag; the 'Nocturnal Black' Birds of a Feather Belt; the Swan Mini Grab bag. (Photos courtesy Anita Dongre)

Fashion designer Anita Dongre's foray into a new line of vegan accessories is her way of continuing to strive towards sustainability in fashion, in every way possible. Anita has always been passionate about sustainability and this first-generation designer, has maintained that hers was a brand that was into optimal resource utilisation, conscious fashion, reducing wastage, and better production practices.

The House of Anita Dongre that has ready-to-wear lines like AND (Western wear), Global Desi (boho-chic), Grassroot, Pink City (jewellery), her signature label Anita Dongre, now boasts of new vegan accessories. In an exclusive interview with Moneycontrol, the designer says it has taken her years to find the perfect replacement for leather and something that is also plastic-free, cruelty-free and kind to the planet. Edited excepts:

Anita Dongre's Kala Ghoda Store in Mumbai.

Tell us about your new vegan brand.

I have wanted to launch a line of luxury bags for the longest time. We were just waiting for the right materials. And, today, with a lot of advanced technology and awareness about veganism, we finally had a material that is cruelty-free and planet-friendly. We are very excited to have created this collection inspired from nature and to make something that is natural and cruelty free.

It isn’t easy to source material that adheres to all standards especially when it is completely vegan. Was it a long wait for you to get the right product?

Yes, I have been waiting for a long time for a vegan material that is plastic-free. This material we found really ticked all my boxes.

What accessories does your latest vegan collection has?

We have done a very small line of belts, bags and shoes and are planning to expand it further. We have many more collections planned for the future and will continue introducing new designs.

What kind of material were you looking for?
I am interested in any material that is sustainable today. There is a lot of progress happening in materials and we are constantly in touch with companies who are making or are developing in the space. It is very exciting right now.

Mirum, the vegan material you are using in your latest collection, tell us more about it.
Mirum is one of the materials that we have worked with. It is plastic-free, it is biodegradable and looks and feels absolutely like leather. It is a very versatile material and, as a designer, I think it really works well.

Anita Dongre's Birds Of A Feather Crossbody Bag.

Materials like these have their limitations. Sustainable materials have their own constraints. Would you like to tell us about that?
Yes, there are limitations when you work with sustainable materials because we do not have the option to do many colours. Right now, it is only available in black. There are restrictions of design and pattern. But, I think one has to be patient because it is all about fashion, it is about waiting to create the right product and then introduce it to everyone. And it is also about not compromising.

Anita Dongre's The Haathi Belt — Nocturnal Black 2.

How long did this take?
This particular collection took quite a few months, but we have been on the lookout for these materials for a very long time. So, the whole process really takes a lot of time by the time you test them, by the time you figure out how the material works.

You have always been passionate about sustainability.
That’s right, I am very passionate about sustainability, because I think all of us today need to work towards using whatever resources we have more mindfully. We have to make a lot of progress and we have a lot to work on. For me, this journey has just begun and I really feel that there is so much I learn and discover every day. But to question, to prove, to think and then take decisions mindfully is what really excites me.

Anita Dongre's Champagne Gold Glass Beaded Bag 2.

How hard is it to maintain a vegan accessory?
It’s not hard at all. It is not difficult at all in fact, it is much easier to maintain than leather. I think it’s great that there is an awareness today for cruelty-free material and I think that the customer is waiting for more such products. This vegan collection of mine has been met large-heartedly by my customers. It is really encouraging and very gratifying.

You are into couture as well as pret, ready-to-wear, lables. How do you keep the balance creatively?
I love doing ready-to-wear and I love doing couture! For me, fashion is all about making women feel better about themselves. For me, fashion is an emotion, whether it is ready-to-wear or couture.

Anita Dongre's Nocturnal Black Glass Beaded Bag.

You have been a woman designer in a largely male-dominated field for over the last two decades. How has the journey been?
I just love doing what I do and I feel blessed that fashion is my profession and I get to go to work every day and do something exciting, and something new. So, it’s amazing!

Tell us about your latest venture.
My new store in Kala Ghoda, Mumbai, is really special as it is an 1850 building. This famous Sassoon Building was in a dilapidated condition when we took it over. Then we restored it. We brought over a lot of art from Rajasthan for the interiors of the stores. Now it’s a beautiful space to house my entire collection.