Of attars and how the alcohol-free aroma saturates the air in Kashmir during Ramzan

Some of the most popular attar fragrances sold in the markets of Kashmir are Janat ul Firdous, Oud, Fawakeh, Gulab, Chameli, Nargis, Musk, Chocolate, Banana, and Kesar. (Photo by Irfan Amin Malik)

During the month of Ramzan, the fragrance of non-alcoholic perfumes wafts through the mosques and shrines of Kashmir. During the holy month, the demand for non-alcoholic perfumes, also known as attars, goes up, as people who observe fasting prefer to apply attar, an oil-based natural perfume, before going for congregational prayers in mosques and shrines, a custom widely attributed to the Prophet Muhammad (PBUH).

The use of attar also increases during the festive occasion of Eid ul Fitr, when Muslims wear new clothes and apply attar, a natural perfume extracted from flowers, before going to offer grand prayers in a large gathering.

Where to buy the best attar in Jammu & Kashmir

The cramped and narrow lane that leads to the aptly-named Ranger Masjid Bohri Kadal in Srinagar's downtown is home to a variety of smells. A number of attar shops line the lane. Locals know this is among the best places to get attar at wholesale prices.

“The sale of non-alcoholic perfumes goes up by 50 percent during Ramzan compared to the rest of the year. We have 400-500 collections of perfumes and the rate ranges from Rs 25 per ml to Rs 60,000,” said Arif Wani, who runs a wholesale attar store.

It has been 13 years since Wani opened his attar store—Maktaba Mehmoodiya—in Srinagar's Bohri Kadal area. “During Ramzan, every day around 50-60 customers purchase perfumes from my store compared to 20-30 (per day) in other months.”

An attar shop in J&K. (Photo by Irfan Amin Malik)

When demand is highest

Temporary kiosks and stalls selling non-alcoholic perfumes pop up near attar shops in different markets of Srinagar city as the sales shoot up in the holy month. Such stalls are also set up outside mosques and shrines to grab the attention of worshipers. The sales are particularly high after Zuhr, noon prayers and Asr, the afternoon prayers.

Kashmir has seen a rapid increase in the demand for alcohol-free perfumes over the past few years.

Common alcohol-free perfumes are easily available in the range of Rs 25 to Rs 500, while top international attar brands are much more expensive.

Husaib Malik who works at attar shop located in Srinagar’s Madina Chowk told Moneycontrol that the sale of attar has increased 80-90 percent during Ramzan.

He added that Oud perfume which is sold at Rs1,600 per 8 ml is trending and "sold like hot cakes" in Ramadan 2023. “Oud is a special non-alcoholic perfume which has a good customer base because its fragrance lasts longer," he explained.

Religious scholars are divided over the use of perfumes containing alcohol. Still, the more devout worshippers tend to avoid alcohol-based perfumes as the use of alcohol is prohibited in Islam.

Attar for teetotalers and naturalists

Wani said that not just muslims but non-muslims including tourists come to his store and buy different types of attars throughout the year. “Perfumes sold in the market contain alcohol to help the scent rise from the skin – yet it also causes it to evaporate faster. But attars are concentrated perfume oil and can last for a day or two because they do not contain alcohol,” Wani explained. The sheer variety of fragrances helps, too.

Reasons to head to Gaw Kadal

Abdul Wasay Ansari, who has been selling attar for decades in the Gaw Kadal area of Srinagar, told Moneycontrol that the business of attar flourishes during the month of Ramzan as compared to any other month.”

As one steps inside Ansari’s perfume outlet in Gaw Kadal, the multiple fragrances linger in the air. “We have 800-900 varieties of attar in our shop. We make a number of varieties ourselves while others are imported from various countries including India, Saudi Arabia and UAE, said Ansari who has been in the attar business for the last 33 years.

Origins of attar

Attar, according to Wani, has its origins in India and the Middle East. “India has been one of the largest attar markets in the world. Even before 1947, India had been exporting oil used for making attar to various countries.”

The global market for perfumes is estimated at $35-50 billion a year, depending on which source you believe. Saudi Arabia is the world's biggest consumer of perfumes, followed by the UAE. “Our religion Islam has stressed a lot on cleanliness. We have been asked to put on a good appearance. It is a tradition to put on attar not just in Ramzan but throughout the year,” said Mir Shahnawaz, who regularly purchases non-alcoholic perfumes.

Most popular fragrances

Some of the most popular attar fragrances sold in the markets of Kashmir are Janat ul Firdous, Oud, Fawakeh, Gulab, Chameli, Nargis, Musk, Chocolate, Banana, and Kesar.

“With good perfume, you can create a good vibe and ambience. Smelling good makes your personality better because the aroma has a direct impact on the mood,” said Wani with a smile.

Attar, according to perfume sellers, is made from flowers, agar, spices, types of wood that are left to steep for a long time to get the best fragrance which is completely chemical-free.