Monsoon travel: Capital calling, in Kerala’s Thiruvananthapuram

Padmanabhaswamy temple complex, Thiruvananthapuram, Kerala.

Kerala’s capital doesn’t always get the same attention from tourists as some of Kerala’s other tourist hubs. It should. I didn’t discover India’s southernmost capital on a recent visit. I’ve been a regular visitor since I was a child — I’ve spent many summer vacations in Thiruvananthapuram (like many locals, I still say Trivandrum). My month-long vacation would begin in the peak of summer and would extend till the beginning of the monsoons. It’s why I think the best time to visit Thiruvananthapuram is during the rains that usually kick off by the end of May and continue until the end of August.

Kovalam (Photo: Kerala Tourism)

Most tourists who’ve been to Thiruvananthapuram will tell you about the charms of Kovalam but there’s more to the city than its fabled beach getaway. My recent visit took me beyond the confines of the city. It began at one of the city’s newest luxury hotels. The O by Tamara, Trivandrum is in the city’s new hot spot along the NH Bypass that connects to Kanyakumari. This area is also home to Lulu Mall, one of the largest malls across Asia. The concierge at the hotel can help you discover the culture and traditions of one of south India’s cultural capitals with curated trails. O by Tamara is the perfect starting point to explore the city’s burgeoning F&B scene. High Dive is one of the city’s only sports bars while O Café offers a refreshing take on Kerala cuisine. Trivandrum offers quite a few options for the Epicurean. This is, after all, the home of the iconic Travancore chicken.

For the love of chicken

Thiruvananthapuram and chicken are almost intertwined but there’s more than just one version of Travancore chicken. The Thattukada (the local name for a food cart) chicken fry is one of the most definitive recent culinary trends in the city. You will find most food trucks and stalls in areas like Vellayambalam come to life just after sunset in time to catch working executives on their way back home. It’s the ultimate monsoon comfort and is rich in flavours. Most local foodies will direct you to Hotel Rahmaniya in the city’s bustling Chala bazaar area to sample what has become the unofficial dish of Thiruvananthapuram. Kethel’s chicken is marinated in chilli and their trademark fiery masala before being deep fried with pepper and a garnish of chilli seeds.

A patch of Kerala in the heart of Tamil Nadu

Fun fact, the area in and around the Padmanabhapuram Palace in the heart of Kanyakumari district in Tamil Nadu is actually owned and managed by the Kerala government. The powerful Travancore dynasty operated out of Padmanabhapuram (that’s close to Nagercoil) until 1795 before opting to move the capital to present day Thiruvananthapuram. It’s less than two hours away from Thiruvananthapuram and is certainly worth the drive. Construction of this palace began in 1601. It’s one of the largest wooden palaces in Asia and one of the finest examples of traditional Kerala architecture with intricately crafted wooden ceilings. If you’re planning to combine this visit with Kanyakumari, I would suggest leaving Trivandrum after an early breakfast. You can deep dive into the traditions of the Travancore temple by planning a visit to the Ranga Vilasam Palace Art Gallery that is housed in the Ranga Vilasam Palace that was constructed by Maharaja Swati Tirunal, the monarch-musician in 1839.

The City of Lord Anantha

Shree Padmanabhaswamy temple, Thiruvananthapuram. (Photo: Ashwin Rajagopalan)

Thiruvananthapuram takes its name from its famous Lord Vishnu temple — Shree Padmanabhaswamy Temple. Thiruvananthapuram translates  to the City of Lord Ananta (a form of Lord Vishnu). It’s one of the most significant Vaishnavaite shrines and not a lot has changed since I was overawed with the sheer scale and traditions of this temple as a child. You could say that for Thiruvananthapuram as a whole that still retains the charms of a big small city with a great quality of life and easy traffic.

Just Kerala things

Boat ride on Poovar lake, through a mangrove forest, near Thiruvananthapuram. (Photo: Ashwin Rajagopalan)

There’s nothing more magical than a boat ride through Kerala’s backwaters in the midst of the monsoon season. Poovar (about an hour away from the city centre) is one of Kerala’s best kept secrets. It may not be as popular as the Vembanad Lake cruise near Allepey but offers a variety of landscapes. This backwater cruise also cuts through a mangrove forest, before culminating in a secluded beach. Kovalam’s hipster vibe draws visitors from across the world.

Just before sunset at Golden Sand Beach, Poovar. (Photo: Ashwin Rajagopalan)

It’s one of Kerala’s most photogenic landscapes — high cliffs, tall coconut palms and the calming waters of the Arabian sea. Sunsets are magical on clear days but even that doesn’t beat the charms of Kovalam and Thiruvananthapuram during the monsoons when a verdant shade of green envelopes one of India’s most charming state capitals.

Fishing in the backwaters of Poovar. (Photo: Ashwin Rajagopalan)

Stay

O by Tamara: In the heart of the new city’s new entertainment and commercial zone, O by Tamara offers a choice of well-appointed rooms and suites. It’s also one of the closest (just 15 minutes away) from the Thiruvananthapuram airport.

O by Tamara

Leela Kovalam: It is one of India’s only cliff-top luxury beach resorts and offers sea-view rooms and villas. You’re close to Kovalam’s cafés and beachside restaurants.

Leela Kovalam. (Photo: Kerala Tourism)