5 differences between a handloom saree and a machine-made piece

Saree shopping guide: Handloom fabrics usually feel soft, breathable, and slightly textured. They drape naturally and feel alive in the hand (Image: Canva)

When you’re shopping for a saree, especially during wedding season, labels like handloom can feel both exciting and confusing. Handloom sarees are often priced higher and spoken about with reverence, but how do you know if what you’re buying is genuinely woven by hand or produced on a powerloom? While both have their place, knowing the difference helps you shop with clarity, confidence, and respect for craftsmanship.

Handloom or machine-made saree

Here’s a simple, practical guide to help you identify whether a saree is truly handloom or machine-made. Understanding these details transforms saree shoppinginto a more meaningful experience.

Also read | 7 types of silk sarees every woman should own and why they’re perfect for the cold

1. Look for “beautiful imperfections”

Handloom sareesare woven manually, and that human touch shows. You may notice slight variations in thread tension, tiny irregularities in motifs, or a gentle shift in the weave. These are not defects; they are signatures of handcraft. Powerloom sarees, on the other hand, are mechanically woven and therefore extremely uniform, precise, and flawless in appearance.

Sujata and Taniya Biswas, Founders of Suta, explain, “Handloom is not defined by perfection but by imperfections, the slight shifts and the soft traces of the weaver’s effort. These human signatures remind you that your saree was not produced but created, thread by thread, with intention and emotion.”

2. Examine the selvedge (edges)

The selvedge or the finished edge running along the length of the saree is one of the clearest indicators. Handloom sarees may show slight unevenness, tiny knots, or thread joints where the weaver has worked manually. Powerloom sarees have straight, sharp, and extremely neat selvedges due to machine-controlled finishing.

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3. Feel the fabric

Handloom fabrics usually feel soft, breathable, and slightly textured. They drape naturally and feel alive in the hand. Powerloom fabrics often feel smoother, stiffer, or heavier, especially if synthetic blends are used. The reverse side reveals a lot — handloom sarees often show floating or loosely carried threads at the back of motifs, an honest trace of manual weaving.

Powerloom sarees look clean and uniform on both sides due to mechanised precision. Says Anil Sancheti, Partner at Mysore Saree Udyog, “A handloom saree carries far more than a pattern or a palette, it carries the rhythm of a weaver’s hands, the gentle irregularities that reveal real craftsmanship, and a character no machine can imitate. These nuances aren’t flaws but the very identity of true handloom.”

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4. Observe motifs and the pallu

Handloom motifs tend to be slightly raised, with subtle variations in shape and density. No two repeats are exactly alike. Pallus often feel heavier and richer because they are woven slowly and deliberately. Powerloom motifs appear flatter, sharper, and identical throughout the saree.

5. Try the gentle stretch test

Handloom sarees have a natural elasticity and bounce due to controlled hand tension during weaving. Powerloom sarees may feel either rigid or overly stretchy depending on machine tension and yarn composition.

When in doubt, look for official tags. Handloom Mark certifies that the fabric is woven on a handloom, whereas, a Silk Mark confirms purity in silk sarees. While not every authentic handloom saree carries a tag, these marks add an extra layer of assurance.