Mumbai's new restaurant, The Conservatory, offers a dining experience amid lush greenery

The alfresco section at The Conservatory, Juhu

The long leaves of the tall Jamun tree filter the rays of the sun, throwing dappled sunlight on our arms. A black butterfly plays hide and seek amid the potted plants in one corner and the overhanging creepers provide a canopy above our heads. You could be forgiven for mistaking yourself to be in a greenhouse or a conservatory. Well, you won’t be very far from the truth either.

The Conservatory in Juhu is the latest addition to the swanky neighbourhood’s F&B offerings. Restaurateur Suren Joshi, the man behind Bandra-based Joshi House and the I Think Fitness gym chain, believes one cannot enforce a concept on a location. “The idea of doing a conservatory has been on my mind at a subconscious level. When I started looking for ideas online I came across an image of a coffee shop in Bali which stayed in my mind. It looked simple and I think simple is what works the best for us here,” he adds.

The dining area, on the first floor, at The Conservatory, Juhu

A glass apart

On the face of it, it sure does look simple enough. The alfresco seating on the ground floor amid mulberry and mango trees, the 22ft-long bar made of exposed stone, the flight of stairs leading up to the first-floor dining area, a private-dining area for larger parties in one corner, muted décor for seating and lighting that plays up the lush greenery — all of it comes together seamlessly. However, it has taken months of planning and attention to detail which has resulted in this understated yet luxurious space.

Interior designers Parzan Daruwalla and Natasha Chawla of Studio 6158 were aware of the challenges that would come their way in building an eatery that resembles a sun lounge, but they were also excited at the prospect of working with the existing trees in the compound and trying out new ideas. “The compound entrance already had mango, jamun and mulberry trees and we saw the sense in building a conservatory here,” says Chawla.

The setting sun in the west filters the rays, adding to the relaxed vibe of the restaurant. “We wanted to ensure that we don’t cross the height of the trees, so that it almost feels like you’re sitting in a tree house. The other part was to ensure that we don’t overdo the plants,” adds Daruwalla. Keeping the bottom part of the building stone-heavy and making it lighter as one goes up the flight of stairs was also part of the strategy to lend the structure some visual strength.

Location, location

Turn a corner from The Conservatory and you would find the Arabian Sea gently lapping away on the shores. With Bandra being saturated — not to mention extremely expensive — the present location of the restaurant makes it conveniently accessible to residents of Juhu as well as Andheri. “We are centrally located and just a stone’s throw away from where everybody lives. It is convenient for people to walk down and walk back home or drive for a few minutes to reach here. Convenience matters a lot,” says Joshi.

Being a corner property, The Conservatory is also easily recognisable from a distance. There is hardly any traffic on the road outside, making it a peaceful spot to enjoy a glass of wine with your friends in the evening or to seat yourself in the alfresco section and work on your laptop.

What’s on my plate?  

The food is inspired from Southeast Asian cuisine with a touch of European tapas

The food takes inspiration from Southeast Asian cuisine combined with a touch of European tapas. The smell of freshly-baked pizzas and pides from the wood-fired ovens was in the air when we dropped in for lunch on a weekday to sample Chefs Insiya Rangila and Soumojit Sinha’s offerings. The colourful Burrata and Persimmon Salad turned out to be the perfect start to a hearty meal. The sunlight made our vodka and apple juice-based drink Azalea shimmer like gold. The Eggplant Lonche Tacos had a bit of tanginess from the eggplant pickle, but it was the soft shell Singaporean crab inside soft Mantao buns that hit all the right spots for us. We skipped the mains for the Old Madras dessert, with its refreshing taste of coconut dacquoise and coffee caramel.

Burrata and Persimmon Salad

Going by the number of occupied tables on a weekday at lunchtime, it seems The Conservatory has been duly noticed by those seeking a bit of calm amid the chaos.