Doha is warming up to host the 2022 FIFA World Cup in November. And the effects of the mega sporting event can be seen everywhere - from the glitzy shopping malls to the stadia.
If you're planning a trip to the Qatari city later this year to support your favourite, do check out the local cuisines: one of the major keys to understanding a place’s culture and history.
While you can choose to do this by booking a table at a popular tourist trap restaurant, the best place to find great food in a new place is often the streets and hole-in-the-wall restaurants.
Here's what to expect:
Unlike the stainless steel push carts, crowded night market stalls, kiosks and the backs of bicycles in other parts of the world, in Doha, street food is restricted to the old-world souks and shiny food trucks carved from colourful shipping containers!
“The food scene in Doha has really exploded. From budget eats to 5 star dining and equally delicious street food, there is something for everyone,” says Andrea Hussey, a chef who runs one of Doha’s largest Facebook food groups - Doha foodies. "Qatar also hosts its very own international food festival every year which is held in a beautiful park in November - the perfect winter weather and a great chance to see what the many food outlets have to offer," Hussey adds.
Quest for Qatari food
Most of the produce used in Qatari food is imported. Yet, it is surprisingly varied, with influences from the nomadic Bedouin culture, Indian subcontinent, Iran, the Levant and North Africa.
Arabic coffee served in small cups alongside dates is a national pastime.
For teetotalers there's limonana, a lemon and mint drink that is almost addictive. Be warned that food comes in gigantic portions (meant for sharing) with a mind-boggling variety of mezze, meat dishes, rice and desserts. If you don’t pace yourself, you may end up being full even before the mains arrive.
Scanning the souk for hidden gems
Souk Waqif with its winding alleys and burgeoning crowds is a wonderful place to start any food expedition in Doha, Hussey says. “It’s a great place to experience true Qatari hospitality. The atmosphere is fabulous and the food is always great. The people-watching is excellent too,” she adds.
A 19th-century bazaar, Souk Waqif was renovated in the 1970s but still retains its old soul. From spices to textiles, handmade shoes and jewellery, this place has everything. There is also a lane dedicated to falconry, a passion sport for the Qataris.
Unlike the souks of Dubai that have been modernized, the open-air markets of Souq Waqif represent an older way of life, complete with its narrow, twisty passageways and haggling for prices! In the evening, Qatari women set up temporary stalls serving machboos, ragag and other items.
'So lets get to some of the scrumptious foods you must try in Doha:
Chapati and Karak
This everyday food item may not be a novelty for Indians, but it’s interesting to see how far the humble chapatti has come. Karak is the sweet, fragrant tea that’s a national obsession - it's a bit like chai with lots of sugar and condensed milk (not karak enough for Indian palate). The accompanying chapati is actually a thin paratha dressed up in cheese, eggs, honey or even chocolate.
The best place to savour a hot cup of karak and fresh-off-the-pan chapati is Chapati & Karak at Katara Cultural Village. Just follow the queue of cars lining up seemingly in front of a shack. No-frills, just paper cups and affordable prices. There is some seating next to the food truck but the best way to partake is straight in your car. The breathtaking sunset over Doha city makes for an excellent sight. Chapati & Karak recently opened an outlet in Knightsbridge, London. Talk about the chapatti going places!
Luqaimat
Luqaimat means ‘bite-sized’ in Arabic, and it may be the best thing you will eat in Doha. The dough balls (like gulab jamuns) made up of flour, yeast, cardamom and saffron are deep-fried till they become a brilliant colour. But there is no sugar in the dumplings, they are plunged in honey or date syrup just before serving. This is a great snack to have on the go.
For the best luqaimat, head to Chai Halib. The dumplings here are perfectly crisp on the outside with a spongy centre. They come in a variety of avatars, from cheese-filled to chocolate-filled and dunked in honey. Pair them with a saffron karak chai or Arabic coffee. Take a tote bag along – you’ll want to buy in bulk!
Ragag
Traditional Qatari women spreading a thin batter on a circular pan is a common sight at the souks. It reminded me of a paper dosa back home but the toppings and the taste are the differentiators. The thin crepe is topped with cream cheese or Nutella before folding it in the shape of a cone.
Shay Al Shoomoos located in one corner of Souk Waqif is the best place for a delicious ragag. This is not a fancy place but the food is brimming with soul and has the stamp of approval of numerous regional celebrities, footballers, ministers and food critics. Better still, start the day with a sumptuous, authentic Qatari breakfast here. The egg dishes here are to die for.
Shawarma
If there’s one thing that gets people riled up in Doha, it’s where to get the best shawarma. Seeking out the best cuts of meat and tastiest bread is a passion project with the Qataris, and once they find their favourite, they will defend it until the last breath.
Turkey Central in the Al-Nasar area serves up a juicy chicken or beef version with fries, and it’s perfect for a snack on-the-go anytime of the day. Expect quick service and plentiful food.
Hummus, Falafel, Foul Mudammas
You can’t come to the Middle East and not savour these Arabic delicacies. While most people are already familiar with hummus and falafel, foul mudammas is a hearty fava bean stew usually had for breakfast.
“Abo Shariha at Souq Waqif is a good place for traditional Arab foods - falafel, hummus, foul and lovely meat shawarma that won’t break the bank. The charming courtyard set-up makes the spread even more delicious,” says Hussey.
The falafels here are full to the bite, crispy with a meltingly soft centre.
Breads and more
Just follow your nose to the scent of wood fire in Souk Waqif and it will lead to Kabab Al Tayeb, one of the oldest food institutions in Doha. A fresh stack of bread is your cue to step inside where a group of men slap, smack and pound dough with the practiced rhythm of musicians. The breads are soft and perfectly chewy. Pair them with a mixed grill plate and a side of the umami bomb - mahyawa sauce a traditional fish sauce. The man behind the delicious breads is the cheerful Mohammed Abdul Aziz Durbar, a 63-year-old Iranian.
Samboosa
This crispy cousin of the samosa is a popular street food in Doha. But unlike the Indian samosa that is stuffed with a spicy potato and green peas filling, the samboosa is a small triangle typically filled with cheese. They can sometimes have vegetables or spiced meat. The crispy samboosa filled with melted feta at Bo Tamba is a real treat. The only problem is that it’s almost impossible to just stop at one!
Note: Alcohol is served only in 5 star hotel bars and select restaurants. Drinking in public is not allowed.
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