Phugtal Monastery: Ladakh’s Hidden Cliffside Monastic Wonder

Hidden deep in the Lungnak Valley of southeastern Zanskar, Phugtal Monastery is one of Ladakh’s most breathtaking yet secluded spiritual sites. Perched dramatically on a cliff face above the Tsarap River, it appears almost like a honeycomb carved into the mountainside. Its architecture blends harmoniously with the natural rock, giving the impression of a living fortress suspended between earth and sky.

The monastery traces its roots back to the early 12th century, when it was founded by Gangsem Sherap Sampo, a disciple of the revered Tibetan teacher Tsongkhapa. The word “Phugtal” itself derives from the local terms for “cave” and “liberation,” a fitting name for a retreat built around a natural cave that has long been a place of meditation and solitude for sages and monks.

The complex houses four prayer halls, a library of ancient texts, monks’ quarters, teaching spaces, and even a kitchen and guest rooms. Around seventy monks live here today, following a rhythm of study, prayer, and community service. The monastery walls are adorned with vibrant frescoes and intricate wooden carvings, echoing artistic traditions similar to those at Alchi. A sacred spring flows near the monastery, believed by locals to have healing properties, adding to its aura of mysticism.

For centuries, reaching Phugtal was an arduous journey. Supplies had to be carried in by mule trains in summer or dragged across frozen rivers in winter. Pilgrims and trekkers would spend several days on foot to reach the site, making the journey itself part of the spiritual experience. While a new road has recently reduced the difficulty, many still choose to trek, valuing the remote, untouched nature of the monastery’s setting.