Even as hordes are hotfooting to Ayodhya for the consecration of the Ram temple on January 22, we took a detour to explore Kurukshetra in Haryana. Barely a two-and-a-half hour ride from Delhi-NCR, the atmospheric town is awash in mythological sites, glistening waterbodies, holy shrines and temples.
Interestingly, Kurukshetra — or the land of righteousness — is named eponymously after King Kuru of the Bharat dynasty that ruled here in 3,000 BC. Legend has it that he believed that the town’s proximity to the sacred Saraswati river will bestow him with the eight desirable virtues of tapas (austerity), satya (truth), kshama (forgiveness), daya (kindness), sucha (purity), dana (charity), yagya (oblation) and brahmacharya (celibacy).
Jyotisar
The pivot around which Kurukshetra flows is Jyotisar. The holy site is where Lord Krishna sermonised the Bhagavad Gita to Arjun as the 18-day battle of Mahabharata between the Kauravas and Pandavas roiled the region. It is said that the soil here is red because of the blood-soaked war. Today, though the area radiates serenity with its sacred waterbodies and ancient temples resonating with chants and pealing bells. We step inside the well-curated Krishna Museum to check out artefacts, sculptures, paintings and manuscripts that celebrate Krishna as a master statesman, a philosopher, a spiritual teacher and lover.
Brahma Sarovar
A short walk away from Jyotisar nestles a sacred flat plain called Brahmavarta (Land of the Sages). Home to the holy Brahma Sarovar, it hosts an array of shrines including the Mahadev and Sarveshwar Mahadev temples. Ancient banyan trees lush with aerial roots and saffron-robed sadhus chanting hymns and shlokas add to its holy aura. Our tilak-smeared guide prods us to perambulate the sarovar tank where Lord Brahma is believed to have conceived the Earth in all its diversity. “On Amavasya (moonless night), devotees flock here from all over the world for a holy dip when the tank’s water is blessed with magical powers,” we’re informed as we snap selfies against the glistening Brahma Sarovar.
Sannehit Sarovar
The adjacent Sannehit Sarovar is the confluence of the seven mythical Saraswati rivers. The onsite Kamal Nabhi temple is where Lord Brahma, the creator, was born out of a lotus that grew from Lord Vishnu’s naval. The Bhisham Kund Narkatari where Bhishma Pitamah lay on a bed of arrows awaiting his agonising death is also worth a dekko. A constellation of other temples dedicated to Lord Vishnu, Dhruv Narain, Lord Hanuman, Laxmi Narain and Goddess Durga also dot the area.
The Taj of Haryana
Although rich in Hindu mythology, Kurukshetra was a secular town that honored scholars of all religions. Lord Buddha and senior Sikh gurus also visited it adding heft to its rich religious fabric. The auburn-hued Sheikh Chilli’s mausoleum located on the outskirts of town is a testament to Kurukshetra’s inclusive ethos. Nicknamed the ‘Taj of Haryana’, it celebrates Mughal scholar Sheikh Chilli. Constructed in the quintessential 17th century Mughal architectural style, the tomb is accented by decorative arches, nooks and jaalis. Lush lawns and an onsite museum dedicated to Sheikh Chilli’s intellectual achievements, add to its historic legacy.
Where to stay
Although Kurukshetra is peppered with small hotels, the 125-roomed Noormahal Palace in nearby Karnal is a great option for those with bigger budgets. The palatial heritage property’s three restaurants, a bar, pool, spa and breathtaking décor add to one’s immersive experience. Flaunting an enchanting fusion of elements inspired from traditional Mughal and Rajputana schools of architecture, the award-winning property has become one of India’s most iconic hotels. Heirloom antiques, marble fountains, antique silver and furniture, and Swarovski chandeliers add splendor to its interiors. Interestingly, the property’s owner is Colonel Manbeer Choudhury, a direct descendant of Sikh ruler Maharana Ranjit Singh. A 25-year army veteran, he has also served in the Kargil War. At a time when major industry players are peddling modern hospitality format hotels, Choudhury and his wife Binny have taken pride in painstakingly nurturing and restoring their ancestral palace to run it as a contemporary hotel.
Grab a bite
With its mouthwatering street food, Kurukshetra is a treat for the taste buds. From tangy chaat to crisp jalebis, samosas, and ambrosial sweetmeats like pinni and milk cake (also available at kiosks with serpentine queues), delights the most pernickety palate. However, if you’re wary of street food, head to Frontier Mail at Noor Mahal Palace for an unforgettable fine dining experience. The award-winning eatery lets you step back in time as it recreates a train journey from Peshawar to Mumbai inside train compartments. Some of the décor elements, including artefacts that were a part of the actual train, have been incorporated into the bogey’s interiors.
Tuck into authentic Peshawari and Awadhi dishes belonging to the region while ordering drinks from an ornate mini bar. The menu takes its inspiration from the legendry Frontier Mail train that operated between Bombay and Peshawar during the pre-independence days proffering cuisines from the regions through which the train made its initial journey. As for the food, well, what’s not to love about butter chicken, lamb rogan josh, dal makhani, paneer tikka, tikri mutton and rasmalai, among others?
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