It’s that time of the year again when Malayalis around the globe are getting their kasavu (handwoven Kerala sarees) and mundu (dhoti) out of the cupboard are gearing up to put together an elaborate vegetarian feast.
Onam is around the corner. Apart from the ‘vallam kali’ (boat race), ‘pulikali’ (tiger dance), ‘Kummattikali’ (colourful masked dance) and ‘thumbi thullal’ (women’s dance), Onasadya - a vegetarian feast served on a banana leaf - is the main highlight of this festival celebrated in Kerala.
According to legend, king Mahabali, who once ruled the state, pays a visit to his subjects every year and Onam is celebrated to commemorate his homecoming.
But mind you, this is not any ordinary meal! With approximately 25 preparations on the menu, this grand affair pays due respect to all six tastes – salty, spicy, sweet, sour and bitter.
The Sadya is said to be a combination of healthy and unhealthy, from the deep-fried poppadum to the ‘make your doctor happy’ bitter-gourd pacchadi.
As senior Congress leader Shashi Tharoor wrote for Zomato, the feast is so critical that ‘in Travancore, on state occasions, the cutting of the vegetables always began with the Prime Minister or Dewan arriving in his palanquin and ceremoniously chopping a cucumber or whatever vegetable most appealed to his exalted status.’
Onam celebrations go on for ten days, and this year the festival starts on August 30 and concludes with Thiruvonam on September 8.
What’s on the leaf?
A typical Sadya can have two to three dozen dishes, which may sometimes go up to 64!
The celebratory thali includes upperi (salted banana chips), shakara varratti (jaggery chips), inji curry (ginger curry), parippu with ghee (yellow daal), sambar, olan (pumpkin curry), pulissery (a dish of pumpkin and yoghurt), ellisheri (a mix of pumpkin and lobia), avial (mix veg), chor (rice), kaalan (raw banana curry), moru kachiyathu (buttermilk), rasam, pachadi (mix veg raita), pappadam (crackers) and other dishes.
Some of the items like chips and sharkara varatti are store-bought for convenience, but all the other dishes are made at home. Seasonal vegetables, coconut shavings, grated coconut, coconut milk and coconut oil are the basic ingredients used in most of the dishes. Both raw and ripe banana is extensively used and red matta rice is a staple.
Order of serving and eating
Sadya dishes are served in a specific order, and they also have their designated places on the banana leaf.
“The leaf is placed in such a way that the wider side is on the right hand side of the person eating the meal. This is because the right side of the leaf holds the side dishes and it becomes easier to take the side dishes and mix it with rice and eat. Left end of the leaf is reserved for pickles, chips, pappadom, and banana,” says Ajith Menon.
Rice is served hot only after the person sits down to eat. Parippu (dal) is served on top of the hot rice with a dash of ghee. Erisserry, avial, thoran and papad make the perfect combination with the dal. Sambar is served as a second course with rice followed by kaalan. Hot, peppery rasam poured over rice ends the rice course.
Now get ready for the delightful mess brought on by the payasam which is poured right into the leaf. “This can be tricky for those not used to eating a liquid dessert off a leaf. It has to be relished by mashing the ripe banana into it,” Menon says.
Interestingly, inji curry, which is among the first dishes to be served on the banana leaf, is eaten only at the end of the feast. “Ginger...helps to ease the digestive process. The sweet, spicy and sour condiment adds lots of flavour and health to the special meal. It’s also like giving your stomach a pat on the back for a job well done!” says Sudha Pillai.
The grand feast can be ended by drinking sambharam (tempered buttermilk). When you are done, fold the upper half of the banana leaf towards the lower half.
Regional variations on Sadya
While the essence and spirit of Sadya is very similar throughout Kerala, some regional differences do crop up across districts. “The differences are mostly geography-led and brought upon by the cultures that influenced the area and religion to some extent. Unlike the rest of Kerala, the Syrian Christian community uses garlic in the preparation of avial and thoran. In central and north Kerala, nenthra pazham (Kerala banana) is served as the first course or boiled and served with papadum and jaggery as one of the desserts. It’s also turned in to a dish called pazha nurukku where banana is cooked in jaggery syrup, flavoured with ghee and cardamom. But in the south, you often find the boli (the Kerala pooran poli) making an appearance with the payasam. Since there are at least two desserts, one of them gets served as a palate cleanser in the middle of the Sadya,” explains Sara Jacob Nair, chef and co-founder NairOnFire, a home-style Kerala kitchen in Mumbai.
For the people of Kottayam, pulissery holds a special place in their Sadya. “In place of sambar, we have pulissery prepared with raw plantain along with rice. Pulissery is called kaalan elsewhere but in Kottayam it’s a bit more spicy, tangy and juicy,” says Deepa Thomas from Ponkunnam.
In Ernakulam, palada pradhaman, a dessert made with rice and milk, is served along with spicy pappadavada, while in Thrissur, the cultural capital of Kerala, erupuli, a sweet and sour curry made with ripe bananas, is preferred.
For natives of Kasaragod in the northernmost district of Kerala, no Onasadya is complete without inchi thairu. Made using thick yoghurt, green chillies and ginger, it is one of the easiest Onam dishes to prepare and also aids in digestion.
Non-veg Sadya
It is easy to think of Onam as a vegetarian festival, but it is that primarily to Hindus. Christians and Muslims in Kerala celebrate Mahabali’s memory with their own fare which includes kappa and fish curry, among other items.
“Kerala is a coastal state and seafood is aplenty. So fish and meat do feature in the Sadya in some parts which have access to the backwaters, especially the Malabar belt,” explains Nair.
Alleppey in Kerala has no celebrations without the unique Alleppey fish curry. Karimeen, either fried in oil or baked in banana leaves (pollichathu), is an integral part of Onasadya here.
Similarly, the people of Kannur typically have fish curry as part of the festive meal. Thenga aracha meen curry is the favourite.
Kozhikode, known best for its non-vegetarian cuisine, loves to include a delish chicken curry for their Sadya. Most importantly, the Sadya dishes here are made in puthen kalams (brand new mud pots), which adds an extra delicious flavour to the dishes.
Best Onasadya in town
MUMBAI
NairOnFire
This one is for the non-veg Sadya lovers. The divine spread consists of 25 veg and non-veg dishes. This year’s specials include vali’s parippu, thakkali rasam, pineapple pachadi, chicken morichathu (pan-roasted), mathanga (pumpkin) erissery, Travancore olan, kanthari chicken curry, fish curry, Kochi avial, parippu payasam, semiya payasam with boli and other delicacies.
Dates: September 8, 10, 11 (2022)
Price: Veg: Rs 1,350; Chicken: Rs 1,750; Seafood: Rs 1,950; Buff: Rs 2,250
To order, call: +91 93240 59522 / DM @naironfireindia (Instagram)
South Side Mumbai
The Onam spread by home chef Sarada Krishnan is loved across Mumbai and Navi Mumbai. The elaborate feast holds a total of 20 dishes, including chakka (jackfruit) payasam, kootu curry (vegetable and chickpea curry) and vazakka Mezhkkuvaratti (Kerala style vegetable stir-fry made with raw banana, potato and yam).
Price: Rs 1,200 plus delivery on actuals
To order, call: +91 9967090022
BANGALORE
Kappa Chakka Kandhari
This sumptuous Onasadya is prepared by Namboodiri cooks from Kerala. Available for dine-in as well as a meal-in-a-box option, the feast consists of 26 vegetarian dishes. Highlights include the payasams - ada pradhaman, palada, chakka pradhaman and parippu payasam.
Dates: September 6- 8, 2022
Price: Rs 900 (plus taxes) per head for dine-in. Box priced at Rs 4,950 (plus taxes) - serves 5 people.
To order, call: +91 636467 1010
Karavalli – Taj Vivanta, Residency Road
The Onam Sadya at Karavalli is legendary. Ingredients such as boiled rice, ada, kari naaranga, coconut oil, banana chips, jaggery coated chips, Kerala raw banana, pumpkin and more are sourced from Kerala. The feast comprises 24 dishes, and you can order the Sadhya on the dedicated Qmin app.
To book, call: +91 80666 04545
DELHI
Mahabelly
As far as restaurants that serve Onam Sadya meals in Delhi go, it’s hard to beat the spread laid out at Mahabelly. This year, too, the feast will include veggies-laden avial, a hot and peppery rasam, a light and fresh cabbage thoran, yoghurt beetroot pachadi, ada pradhanam and ari payasam. Make sure you book your spot beforehand.
To order, call: +91 90179 06907
Savya Rasa
This award-winning restaurant chain is known for its sumptuous Onam spread. Expect 30 dishes, including two varieties of payasam. The feast is a sit-down buffet at the restaurant and pre-booking is a must.
Price: Rs 839, plus taxes
To order, call: +91 9940091899 or DM on Instagram/SavyaRasa
CHENNAI
Ente Keralam
Expect an elaborate spread with over 30 dishes, including four types of payasams. Favourites include olan, inchipuli, avial and beans thoran. Takeaway option is also available.
Dates: September 1 - 11, 2022
To order, call: +91 6379910004
Sharavana’s Kitchen
Onam Sadya here comes with over 20 dishes, and the highlights include ulli theeyal, parippu curry, and beetroot pachadi. There is free delivery within 5km from Egmore.
To order, call: +91 7010649902
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