On a Sunday, the early morning light, still tentative on a winter day, paints the alleys of old Varanasi in gold. It's barely 8am, but there’s an infectious energy around. A wide lane from Godaulia Crossing to the famous Dashashwamedh Ghat, open only to pedestrians, teems with life.
Locals hurry towards the sacred Ganga, the air filled with murmurs of morning greetings. Tourists follow, their cameras clicking the threads of daily life. Distant temple bells and the rhythmic chant of priests pierce through the air.
Though the shops lining the road are still shuttered, street vendors have taken over every space available. There’s something for everyone here. The smell of hot kachoris and frying jalebis mingles with the steam coming off of hot chai. There are small and large containers on sale to fill water from the holy Ganga, sweatshirts, shawls and sweaters for every budget, and even tiny figurines of Shiva, the presiding deity of this temple town.
India’s oldest living city and one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities on earth, Varanasi is intense, chaotic, crowded and colourful. It is also forever evolving. Once upon a time, it was revered as Kashi, the luminous city. It later morphed into the elegant Benaras. In its latest avatar, it is named after Varuna and Assi, the two rivers that meander through it.
It is estimated that 20-30 lakh tourists visit the city every month, drawn by its irresistible magnetism. They weave their way through its lanes and spill out on to the west banks for a dip in the Ganga. Legend goes that she cascaded from the tangled tresses of Shiva centuries ago, nourishing the fertile plains of the Gangetic heartland ever since. But it is here, in Varanasi, that she expands into the mighty river we know, worshipped by millions.
A quick glance, and we embark on a journey of discovery in this labyrinth of culture and history.
Dawn at the ghats: As the first rays of the sun descend upon the ghats, the daily ritual unfolds: pilgrims take a dip in the sacred waters, priests chant, and boats crisscross the surface, painting the water with golden streaks. The hush of dawn, broken only by the lapping of water and the murmur of prayers, is an experience that transcends words.
There are more than 80 ceremonial ghats, with central Dashashwamedh Ghat being the busiest and most famous. To get the full vibe, though, start from Assi Ghat and walk all the way to Scindia Ghat, where a Shiva temple can be found partially submerged in the Ganga. Keep your camera handy, but avoid taking photos at Manikarnika Ghat, where cremation fires burn through the day and night.
Sunrise boat ride: For an unparalleled perspective on Varanasi, float down the Ganges on a traditional wooden boat. Dawn offers peace and a front-row seat of the ghats, temples and devotion that defines the city. You could also consider an evening ride, with the opportunity to see the mesmerising aarti at Dashashwamedh. No matter where you stand along the embankment, a boatman is sure to welcome you aboard.
Explore the lanes: Venture beyond the ghats and delve into the maze of narrow alleys that snake through the old city. Lose yourself in the cacophony of life. Every turn reveals a hidden gem – a centuries-old temple, a bustling food stall, or a hidden shrine pulsating with incense.
Head to Kashi Vishwanath Temple: Step into the legendary Kashi Vishwanath Temple, dedicated to Shiva. Feel the energy crackle in the air as you navigate the throngs of devotees seeking blessings. Gold-plated spires pierce the sky and the intricate carvings on the temple walls whisper tales of faith that have spanned centuries. The temple attracts lakhs of devotees on any given day, so set aside time to go through vigorous security procedures to enter. Also plan a visit to Kaal Bhairav, who is renowned as the protector of Varanasi.
Witness the evening Ganga aarti: As the sun sets, return to the ghats and witness the evening aarti at Dashashwamedh Ghat. Flickering flames dancing on the water, accompanied by the rhythmic chanting by priests, create a spectacle of light and sound that will leave you mesmerised. The timing of the aarti changes as per the season and crowds gather early to grab the best seats, so plan to reach there early.
Head to Sarnath: Take a rickshaw 10km through Varanasi’s busy streets to the calm of Sarnath, where Buddha preached his first sermon after achieving enlightenment. Visit the 34m-high Dhamek Stupa, and then head to Sarnath Museum, which preserves a large number of sculptures, artefacts, and statues of Tara and Bodhisattva. Its star attraction, however, is the iconic Lion Capital of Asoka, which was later adapted into the National Emblem of India.
Savour the flavours of the street: Take a break from the spiritual journey and indulge in the culinary delights of Varanasi. Savoury kachoris, spicy chaat, mouth-watering lassi, and melt-in-your-mouth jalebis await in every corner. Kashi Chat Bhandar at Godaulia Crossing and Pehelwan Lassi at Lanka Crossing are a must-try.
Despite the crowds, there’s enough mysticism and old-world charm in Varanasi to delight even the most well-travelled. You’ll leave with a sense of having, even if just for a moment, connected with India’s spiritual soul.
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