On the Kerala coast, a string of pearls vie for attention, each with a set of attributes that uniquely recommend them to visitors. In their midst, buttressed between the Western Ghats and the Arabian sea, Kannur is a bit of an underrated gem. It’s certainly not a hidden one, but only a bit of slow exploration will reveal its true charms and an eclectic mix that has the potential to keep visitors interested. For starters, it has a long, rich and chequered history as the ancient commercial and cultural hub of the Malabar. It even has a bit of myth and legend attached to it: King Solomon’s treasure-laden ships are believed to have anchored here, bestowing untold treasures on it. This could be a reason why a long line of invaders made a beeline. From the Dutch and Portuguese to the British and Mysore kings in between, the influences are several.
Also, the end of October marks the beginning of the theyyam season, a ritual performance usually held at night, sometimes lasting till the following morning. So if you have 36 hours to spend, here’s what’s doing in Kannur.
Day 1
Morning
Start early with a round of temple architecture at the Krishna and Shiva temples and stop for a glimpse of Odatthil Mosque before heading for a heavy breakfast of appam with stew or puttu with kadala curry. For those who like, opt for chicken stew or fish curry as accompaniments. Work off some of the breakfast with a walk through Fort St Angelo located on the coast. Built in the early 16th century by Portuguese invaders, it is situated dramatically facing the sea and incorporates later Dutch and British architectural elements as well. Don’t miss the sea-worn walls, gardens, dungeons and other elements of its mixed legacy. It still stands resolutely, withstanding the ravages of time, having changed hands several times.
Lunch
For lunch, it is time to head to a Kannur icon. Paris Restaurant is paradise for biryani aficionados. It is delicately flavoured and aromatic so don’t expect the palate to get overwhelmed. Don’t miss the restaurant’s famous mutton curry, which can also be teamed with ghee rice, as well as the Kerala parotta. Seafood lovers can get plenty of delicacies such as mussels, pearl spot and squid.
Afternoon
The best way to respect the meal is with a quick nap, but make sure it is short in order to get the most of the city. Head to Arakkal Museum in the late afternoon for a dose of heritage. The museum is inside royal palace of the Arakkal family, a Kannur dynasty from the 12th century; it is also the only Muslim royal family in Kerala. Get a glimpse of the family’s antiques, weapons, furniture, and portraits. Upsize the cultural experience with a visit to the Kerala Folklore Academy, a traditional-arts training academy filled with vibrantly coloured folklore costumes. If you’re lucky, you can even catch a performance.
Evening
As the sun begins drop on the Western horizon, the place to be is by the beach overlooking the Arabian Sea. Most days, the sunset is a spectacular sight and it is a good idea to lounge on the beach with tea and fried snacks. There is no dearth of palm-fringed sandy beaches, so go for a walk or a drive, depending on the mood. Payyambalam beach, stretching for 2 km, is popular but could also get crowded, so head to Thottada beach, a shallow lagoon, which is usually much quieter and has golden sands. Get a glimpse of the dramatic Kannur lighthouse while you are by the sea.
Night
When it gets dark, head back to Fort St Angelo’s to catch the sound and light show which traces the local history including that of the fort. See the theyyam calendar and cross check with locals for the nearest performance; the season usually starts end of October. A mesmerising traditional ritual performance held to venerate the local deity, it can sometimes last through the night. But have a hearty meal before heading out, preferably at one of the several iconic eateries such as Raandhal restaurant.
Day 2
Morning
Try and wake up early for a long walk on the beach. Since it is the west coast, the beaches seldom get sunny at dawn and offer some spectacular views. Have a typical Kerala breakfast and set out for a bit of time amid nature at the Snake Park, with its large collection of cobras, vipers and other reptiles. It is highly interactive and doubles as an education and awareness centre.
If snakes aren’t your thing, then head to the Thalassery Fort. As dramatic as St Angelo’s, it has a beautiful fortress that was built by the British in early 18th century. The towering laterite walls are surprisingly well preserved as are the bastions and tunnels. End the trip with lunch at MVK Restaurant which is known for its delectable seafood menu before heading home.
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