Close your eyes for a moment and think of Dubai. It’s most likely that your mind’s eye is now focused on the aerial view of The Palm. Or, perhaps, you are imagining a fireworks display over the glitzy Atlantis. Maybe, you are craning your neck and squinting into the sky to get a look at the absolute top of the Burj Al Arab? If that’s not your thing, then you are probably imagining yourself on a camel, soaking in the golden dusk on the desert, or wandering with star-struck eyes through the gold souk.
These are the sights and sounds that Dubai has marketed to prospective tourists. And you have to hand it to them, they do a bloody good job of marketing themselves. And so, it’s a shame that Dubai doesn’t sell its eating experiences nearly well enough — for Dubai, in addition to being a luxury, adventure and shopping paradise, is also an incredible destination for foodies.
Before we sink our teeth into Dubai’s culinary fare, we need to first understand Dubai’s history. Today, the city is popular as a travel and business destination predominantly because of where it is situated on the globe — right at the centre of the map, a convenient node that connects the East and the West. There is no major city in the world that you can’t fly to directly from Dubai. While its globally convenient situated-ness may be Dubai’s current calling card, in a sense, location has always been integral to its identity. Its proximity to Iran made it an important trading port in the 1800s. Its proximity to the sea — and specifically to relatively shallow oyster beds — made Dubai one of the biggest pearling centres on the map. In the 19th century, pearl diving was one of the most popular occupations in this otherwise laidback fishing village.
Even before the boom years, Dubai welcomed visitors with open arms — the early 20th century saw an influx of Indians and Pakistanis, partly tempted by trade and opportunities, and partly by the favourable tax regime. Dubai prospered, until the pearl industry collapsed around the middle of the 20th century. They struck black gold, literally in the nick of time, in 1966. Oil propelled Dubai into the future, and it was, perhaps, the hard lessons learnt during the pearl recession — the Emirate has remained nimble, far-sighted and one of the most welcoming global cities for immigrants and tourists alike.
Today, Dubai is home to large numbers of Asians, Europeans and Africans, with a pointed recent increase in Russians as well. The emigrants come with their cultures and mores, and add it all into the melting pot. In my four months in Dubai, I have met an African-American taxi driver who listens to a Tamil FM channel, and I have had a local Arab road-test examiner implore me to “Jaldi chalo (Make haste)!”.
Invariably, food is a quintessential addition to this melting pot of migrant cultures. Dubai caters to all tastes, and across all budgets, though, in general, it helps to have more spending power in this city. The most striking aspect of the food scene in Dubai, for Indians in particular, is that it’s almost impossible to have a bad food outing experience in Dubai. Competition is so steep, and standards so high, that you will likely never be disappointed.
Let’s begin with the obvious — Dubai has better Kerala food than any state in India, other than Kerala itself. The reasons are simple — beef is a staple in the Gulf, with no taboo attached to it, and Keralites abound in this part of the world. Step into the Aaramam restaurant in Karama on any given afternoon for the best beef fry Dubai, and save some space for the parottas and the fried fish. While in Karama, and the neighbouring district of Bur Dubai, you can wander into any of the hundreds of south Indian restaurants for outstanding biryani (Calicut Paradise is a must-try), appams with stews, dosas, vadas, kadak chai and bliss, all for the price of under 30 dirhams (approximately Rs 600) a pop.
Branches of all popular Indian restaurants — from MTR to Moti Mahal — abound in Dubai. But while in Dubai, do not miss the opportunity to sample some Pakistani fare too. You can do worse than Ravi restaurant in Sattva. Their naans are indescribably good, and are delightful with the uniquely white-coloured butter chicken.
Dubai is a great place to sample the various renditions of Middle Eastern food. This is a catch-all term, for we are not really talking of a single unique food style, but a culinary culture that generously borrows from Greek, Mediterranean, Lebanese, Caucasian, Palestinian, Turkish, Arabian and a handful of other influences. Our generic exposure to this wonderful cuisine is unfortunately restricted to shawarma, hummus and falafel, but there is so much more to it. From olives and chickpeas, to vine leaves, goat cheese, pomegranate and sumac contributing to a burst of unique flavours, it all goes down with fresh, soft, warm off the oven khubz (Arabian bread).
An easy entry point for Middle Eastern cuisine is a stop at one of the many branches of Operation Falafel — a popular local fast-food chain. A more indulgent recommendation though, would be the Al Wasl branch of Mama’esh, a quaint, bustling establishment that serves Palestinian food. The menu is full of interesting fare, so feel free to indulge and experiment with everything ranging from the foul to the fatoush, or the fatayer.
Dubai’s pearling days may be behind it, but its tryst with oysters is far from done. Head over to the Jumeirah Beach Residences (JBR) walk for a perfect sun-downer evening, and while you are there, check out the fresh shucks at Hilton’s Maine restaurant, or the nearby Dibba Bay oyster shack. JBR has hundreds of interesting restaurants and bars, but the two you should surely not miss are Allo Beirut that serves solid Lebanese fare, and Old Tbilisi, an outpost for Georgian cuisine. Georgian food is great for vegetarians and bread lovers — the khachapuri (cheesy flatbread pizzas with vegetables, egg and meat of your choice) and the khinkhali (giant Georgian soup dumplings) are absolute must-haves.
If you are in the mood for an entirely different seafood experience, you should give the Dampa Bay Seafood Grill near Port Saeed a try. Dampa serves Filipino seafood fare in a setting you’d have likely never experienced before. There are no plates — the food is served on a communal table that is first decorated with sauce art. On the table, you will be served fresh catches of clams, crabs, lobsters and shrimp, cooked and spiced to preference, along with hot rice. The entire group eats off the table, with polythene gloves on offer to keep the hands clean! Don’t forget to order soda pop to go on the side — you will need it.
Any discussion on food in Dubai is incomplete without a mention of the Jumeirah Lake Towers establishments. Plan an evening by the man-made lake promenade, and step into any one out of Vietnamese Foodies, Pitfire Pizzas or the Streetery Foodhall. If Japanese food gets you excited, head over to Daikan or to Wokyo. Given the questionable food safety standards, affordable sushi is always a risky proposition in India — no such concerns in Dubai though, thanks to their stringent hygiene standards. If you feel the craving for sushi, you should check out a branch of Sushi Art.
Food is largely an experience for the senses of taste and smell, but in Dubai, it can also be an experience for the eyes. Head to Logma, an Emirati establishment at the Dubai Mall for fantastic views of the famous fountain show in the evening, while digging into scrumptious kebabs or samosas. Or, get an outdoor table at the Turkish Village restaurant at the Festival City Mall, to tuck into succulent meat skewers even as you enjoy the one-of-its-kind Imagine sound and light laser show on the Festival Bay. The food is excellent, but the show is out of this world; It’s a must-watch if you are visiting with children.
As the warm day gives way to a cool, neon-lit evening light, as you sip on that fragrant cup of Turkish coffee, in the breaks between the half-hourly laser show displays, just for a moment close your eyes and think about Dubai again. Hopefully, your mind’s eye will now visualise some food-filled platters, alongside those well-marketed scenes of shopping, adventure, seaside and skyscrapers.
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