There are scenic drives and then there’s California’s Highway One. If there’s one highway anywhere in the world where you need to get behind the wheel of a sports car and feel the wind in your hair, it’s this scenic road that hugs the California coast. Big waves, charming coastal towns, historic bridges, Californian wines - this All-American road has it all. One way to think of Highway One is as the slowest way to drive from San Francisco and Los Angeles (LA); so rent a nice set of wheels for what might well become one of the drives of your life.
I’ve done this drive a few times, once as part of a special group of 84 cars (made between the 1930s and 2010s) to commemorate 84 years of Highway One (in 2018). I was strapped up in a 1959 Aston Martin DBIII - James Bond’s ride in the Goldfinger Novel. By the time the Goldfinger movie released in 1964, Bond had switched to the DB5 that is now a movie legend and even made a dramatic appearance in No Time to Die. Only 551 DBIII’s were produced and I hit Highway One in one of only 84 coupe versions of the DBIII that ever rolled out. Except I happily traded the driver’s seat to do the other thing I love on this road – put my mobile shooter into overdrive.
Must-do stops along Highway One
So, should you drive from South to the North or start in San Francisco and then drive south to LA? I’d strongly suggest the latter. Set the tone for your Highway One experience at the Golden Gate Bridge. I enjoyed every minute of 1.92 km walk along the bridge. It was during the walk that I learned that the official colour description for the bridge is ‘International orange’ and not red.
Marin Headlands: Ask a San Franciscan about the best spot to get your ‘money shot’ of the iconic Golden Gate bridge, and you’re likely to be directed to Marin Headlands. There’s no better place to get overhead shots of the Golden Gate bridge and the Pacific Ocean.
Try and reserve an hour or two to check out one of the fascinating trails (www.parkconservancy.org) along the peninsula or a quick escape to Alacatraz, infamous for its maximum security prison.
Wine Country: California’s wine hotspots of Sonoma and Napa Valley haven’t looked back since the Judgement of Paris in 1976 that put the spotlight on new world wines. My first stop was Ravenswood Winery in Sonoma – it doesn’t just produce one of Sonoma’s finest Zinfandels but one of the winery’s experts takes you through a quick tasting and appreciation session, too. You can create your own ‘master blend’ which they can bottle and cork for you. Then there’s Nicholson Ranch Winery owned by an IIT Mumbai alumnus Deepak Gulrajani who ditched a corporate job in the US decided to pursue his passion for wine.
My favourite small town in California: Carmel is a regular stop for highway trippers who love to slow things down. Clint Eastwood once served as mayor here, and this town became a refuge for some of California’s most creative minds like Hank Ketcham (who created Dennis the Menace).
Carmel offers an array on eclectic cafes and restaurants including my favourite – Cypress Inn, a pet-friendly establishment that was set up by Doris Day.
Leave those stilettos in your car, though, high heels are officially banned in Carmel unless you have a permit. Locals told me that this bizarre law was enforced to prevent lawsuits from tripping accidents caused by the town’s uneven pavements.
One of the most stunning meetings of the land and the sea in the world: That’s how The New York Times once described Big Sur. The Bixby Creek Bridge that was completed in the 1930s became one of the first magnets for Highway One. Take it slow here, and take in the sweeping ocean views as you pass this iconic bridge. I stopped for brunch stop at Ventana Big Sur, an Alila resort that has now become a premier glamping site. You can experience the Californian Redwoods and the outdoors from the comfort of a luxury tent.
The enchanted hill: San Simeon is best known for its famous castle on the hill, it’s one of the world’s most visited modern castles. Popularly referred to as the La Cuesta Encantada (The Enchanted Hill), the Hearst Castle was envisioned by newspaper magnate William Randolph Hearst who lived here from time to time between 1919 and 1947. It’s not just a treasure trove of art and architecture but full of fascinating tales. This was once the hangout of the Hollywood and political elite; everyone one from Winston Churchill to Greta Garbo has been on the guest list, and usually landed into the estate’s private airfield.
California’s original capital: Do make time to stop at Monterey Bay, California’s original Spanish capital. It's home to one America’s most well-run aquariums – the jellyfish exhibits are particularly stunning, while Cannery Row along the town’s historic quarter inspired one of John Steinbeck’s best known novels. If seafood is your scene, you will be spoilt for choice along the Old Fisherman’s Wharf area.
Lone Cypress: This 250-year-old Monterrey Cypress tree is probably America’s most photographed tree and a customary stop on Highway One. It’s sandwiched between two iconic golf courses – the Cypress Point Golf course and Pebble beach, one of America’s most scenic and historic golf courses. It’s part of the '17-mile drive’, one of the most beautiful stretches along Highway One. The ocean views are almost unrivalled.
Of coastal towns: It’s impossible to cover every iconic spot along Highway One on a short drive itinerary. You have to pick towns to drive through, and one or two towns to cast anchor and explore. I can think of a few towns that are worth staying the night. There’s Morro Bay that was made popular by the 2016 Pixar film Finding Dory. Dory’s childhood home was the fictional Marine Life Institute, known as the Jewel of Morro Bay. The Morro Bay Rock provides the perfect back drop to this idyllic coastal town, especially towards sunset. Then there’s glamorous Santa Barbara with its upscale restaurants and Santa Monica with its busy pier just outside LA. The perfect finish before you explore the sheer energy of Los Angeles.
Plan ahead
- Most car rental agencies like Avis and Enterprise also offer convertibles (Ford Mustangs are a popular choice)
- Hotels tend to be more expensive at popular towns like Santa Barbara, so plan ahead.
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