Indian Accent, one of Delhi’s most esteemed fine dining restaurants, has come under fire after a Delhi-based surgeon and writer, Ambarish Satwik, accused the establishment of deliberately serving button mushrooms in place of the much-prized Kashmiri morels. The incident, which has since sparked a heated debate about transparency in fine dining, was shared by Satwik in a viral tirade on social media.
The controversy began when Satwik, visiting Indian Accent, ordered a dish from the tasting menu that promised a combination of morel, water chestnut, and asparagus, all hidden beneath a “paper roast dosai.” Satwik described his initial excitement at the prospect of sampling the morel, often referred to as the "truffle of the East" and a highly sought-after delicacy from the forests of Jammu and Kashmir.
However, Satwik's enthusiasm quickly turned to disappointment when, instead of the expensive morel, he found a "drab cluster of the most ordinary button mushrooms," which he described as "the fungal equivalent of a counterfeit handbag." Satwik emphasised that this was not a mere mistake, but rather a “deliberate act of chicanery” designed to fool customers who might not know the difference.
"If you’re going to list morels on the menu, then there better be morels on the plate, not the fungal detritus scraped from the bottom of a vegetable box," Satwik wrote in his post. He went on to question the ethics behind such a switch, calling the act "outright theft."
<blockquote class="twitter-tweet"><p lang="en" dir="ltr">A tirade.<br><br>Against <a href="https://twitter.com/Indian_Accent?ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw">@Indian_Accent</a>, Delhi’s much-lauded temple of gastronomy, where the well-heeled and the well-fed go to stroke their palates with innovation. A couple of days back, they were found peddling a culinary sleight of hand.<br> <br>The offending dish, an offering on the… <a href="https://t.co/wue4lJg3MX">pic.twitter.com/wue4lJg3MX</a></p>— Ambarish Satwik (@AmbarishSatwik) <a href="https://twitter.com/AmbarishSatwik/status/1833044906379563251?ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw">September 9, 2024</a></blockquote> <script async src="https://platform.twitter.com/widgets.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
When Satwik summoned the chef, he received a rapid apology and a replacement dish containing actual morels. This quick turnaround, however, only deepened Satwik’s concerns, as he wondered aloud how the kitchen could rectify the issue in under two minutes. "Is this fine dining or an airport lounge buffet?" he asked. The entire experience, according to Satwik, raised broader questions about what diners are truly paying for at such high-end establishments: the quality of the ingredients or simply the restaurant’s reputation and pomp.
The restaurant’s decision to substitute button mushrooms for the prized morels also provoked a wider discussion across social media. IAS officer Shah Faesal was among those who shared their frustration. "As a die-hard champion of the authentic Kashmir morel, I can't help but be deeply offended by this restaurant’s audacity to serve up button mushrooms, pretending they’re the coveted Guchhi. Inexcusable!" he posted.
Writer and historian Rana Safvi also lent her voice to the issue, stating, "I am glad you are raising this issue." Meanwhile, other social media users expressed their outrage at what they saw as a breach of trust from such a high-profile establishment. One comment read: "No morels, no morals – what a shame!"
Indian Accent, regularly ranked among India’s best restaurants and listed at #26 on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants, has yet to issue an official response to the controversy. Known for its innovative take on Indian cuisine, the restaurant is now facing serious questions about its culinary integrity.
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