Amid the plethora of suggestions to head to the hills or waterfalls during the monsoon, opting for the seaside is an unpopular opinion. But watching the drama of the sea and sky as they turn into all kinds of spectacular colours, and seeing the fury of the rains sends special kind of thrill up the spine. Agreed, it may not be a good idea to step into the ocean, but gazing at it in all its elemental rawness is an experience in itself. The Karnataka coast might not have famous beaches as its neighbours, but the relative obscurity makes locations up and down its coast ideal monsoon getaways. From little known fishing hamlets to well-known temple towns, here are seven places for a quiet and dramatic monsoon break.
Ullal
Just outside sprawling Mangalore, Ullal is a little town with a history going back several centuries. While the town has a clutch of beaches, the place to be is Someshwara beach, a stretch of pristine and clean sand with a rocky outcrop that faces the ocean. At low tide, it is calm as a lake, but at high tide and during the rains, the sea is quite ferocious, as if bubbling with latent energy and a sight to watch. Perching on a set of rocks that line the beach is the best way to experience it; on clear days, this is also the place to see jaw-dropping sunsets. Nearby Mangalore offers plenty of dining options and sights to break the monotony of watching the sea.
Kapu
Hidden and understated, Kapu or Kaup, isn't likely to show up as an idyllic seaside getaway on any search. Which works perfectly in its favour, making it ideal for monsoon-watching. Located 10 km south of the temple town of Udupi, the best part is by the coast. The long and clean coastline has a smattering of fishing hamlets through which flows a little river and joins the ocean. There is much to do here: watch stormy clouds over the angry sea or the glorious colours of sunset, walk on golden sands and trek up to an ancient lighthouse or slow drive along narrow coastal roads fringed by tall coconut trees. Hare off to Udupi for some action and temple fare or feast on seafood at Malpe.
Maravanthe
A little town north of Udupi, Maravanthe’s appeal is its spectacular and dramatic scenery — Arabian sea on the left and Sowparnika river on the right framed by the beautiful Kodachadri hills behind it. But it gets even better in the monsoon, when both the river and sea swell to merge and form a continuous whole at times. Quite apart from this, Maravanthe beach is unspoilt, so a walk along it if the rains let up, or a long drive along is a wonderful experience.
Murudeshwar
Like many other temple towns, life in Murudeshwar revolves around the gigantic temple on the beach dedicated to Lord Shiva. But just a few minutes to the north, the beach is deserted and blue waters stretch out into the horizon in serenity. On most days, the waters at the shoreline are gentle and meet soft, golden-yellow sand; but during the monsoon, they take on a dramatic grey hue, and are a riveting sight. When the rains let up, walk along the road leading to the temple, which is usually a hub of activity and colour, with vendors selling all kinds of paraphernalia, toys, household articles, kitsch and street food.
Honnavar
Driving up the coast, it is easy to miss Honnavar, a sleepy little coastal town that was once a bustling port and important trading post but is now relatively obscure. But its location, at the juncture where river Sharavathy joins the Arabian sea, has an unmatched charm. Its untouched beach is its best kept secret, with clean sands and crystal clear water. During monsoon, it completely changes, as waves lash the shore and thick, grey clouds constantly dump water. And yet, it is a haven with hardly any tourists and general tranquility. For a change of scene, head to Apsara Konda, a picturesque and hidden waterfall or try to discover the town colonial legacy including a striking obelisk.
Gokarna
Gokarna is known mainly for two things: its temple or as a hippie hangout. But a bit of digging will reveal it is a beautiful location during monsoon. It is home to the famous Mahabaleshwara temple with its atmalinga, as well as the Ganesha, Durga and other temples nearby. The temple beach is popular too, but for a serene beachside experience, there are a handful of seaside locations with beautifully located stay options. The most famous is Om beach but other such as Kudle, Half Moon and Paradise are less crowded and ideal as a tranquil getaway. When the weather is good, it is possible to trek from one to the other.
Karwar
Possibly the most bustling among all these locations, Karwar is a little port town with an important Naval base just outside it. The town itself is languid and has a few attractions such as the Warship Museum with interesting displays of naval items, war memorabilia, photographs and the details of the working of a war ship, and the colourful weekly market. But for the true taste of the monsoon, it is best done outside town, at Devbagh island. Deserted and peaceful, the island is ideal for kicking back or hanging in a hammock and watching the endless sea. Mix it up with visits to a nearby fort, ancient temples and binge on delicious seafood.
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