India's west coast has almost become synonymous with seaside vacations. But it would be utterly unfair to underestimate the slightly underrated east coast – which is home to some equally alluring destinations for a fun-filled holiday. One of them is Pondicherry or Puducherry.
A former French colony which is now a Union territory, Pondicherry is a poem in itself with beautiful and clean sun-kissed beaches, a serene countryside dotted with coconut trees, and a melting pot of cultures. The beauty of the drop-dead topography is accentuated by the well-maintained and colourful colonial structures, churches and temples, a reminder of the rich cultural history of the region.
And it's not just about natural beauty and heritage. Pondicherry has much to offer to the young crowd too – good gourmet food, a roaring nightlife, adventures, sporting activities, meditation – and a memorable ride along the scenic East Coast Road, also known as the Mutthamizh Arignar Kalaignar Road, which leads to Chennai.
Exploring the White Town
You can begin your tour with a customary visit to the pedestrian-only 1,500-metre Promenade, which is flanked by a rocky beach and the Bay of Bengal on one side and the famed White Town, with beautiful French-colonial era buildings, parks and a host of cafes on the other.
Prominent landmarks along the Promenade Road are the Mahatma Gandhi statue set in bronze (it's a popular photo point); the French War Memorial in honour of World War II heroes; the Mark Dupleix park and statue; Bharathi Park; the heritage Raj Niwas, which is the residence of the Lieutenant Governor of Pondicherry; the old lighthouse at the end of the beach road; the Notre Dame des Anges Church, and a flea market that sells all kinds of souvenirs and fancy items.
Walking through White Town amid its narrow lanes, cobbled streets and buildings built in French and Greco-Roman styles, you would get a very European vibe, as if you are strolling in some old neighbourhood in France.
One major draw is the Sri Aurobindo Ashram, housing mediation, yoga and cultural centres, and the Samadhi of founder Sri Aurobindo, just beside the Promenade Road. Visitors are allowed during certain hours. Limited accommodation is also available but one needs to book in advance.
Shopping hubs, temples, churches
Other places of interest where one can spend time are the 22-acre Botanical Garden, a perfect family spot; the colourful Basilica of the Sacred Heart of Jesus; Jawahar Toy Museum; the 500-years-old Sri Manakula Vinayagar Temple dedicated to Lord Ganesha; the Portuguese-style white and yellow Immaculate Conception Church; Goubert Market; and Sri Gokilambal Thirukameshwar Temple. Each place has different entry timings.
The best way to look around would be to walk or hire a scooty, which is available at a modest rent. The quiet neighbourhoods surrounding White Town have hotels, clubs, cafes, restaurants, roadside eateries, shopping hubs and a silver wholesale market.
MG Road, Casablanca, Romain Rolland Street, Saram China Market, Serenity Beach Bazaar, Nehru Street, Goubert Market are some shopping joints where you can pick up anything from clothes to artefacts to silverware to south Indian snacks and coffee powder.
Foodies’ delight
Apart from popular south Indian delicacies, Pondicherry is a hub of gourmet French and continental cuisine such as lip-smacking pastries, croissants, cakes and tarts, good coffee, waffles, crepes, open baguette sandwiches; fresh bread and pasta, available in numerous coffee joints and eateries dotting the town, the nearby villages and the beaches.
And don’t miss out on the Chettinad curry, Thalappakatti Ambur biryani; shrimp crackers, crab masala, prawns curry, fish masala with steaming rice or khowsuey, a coconut-based vegetarian curry. There are dozens of tiny tiffin corners where you will get fresh dosa, idli, vada, uthapam, filter coffee, etc., for as little as Rs 10-15. For those who find it difficult to choose, there's always the ubiquitous but satiating veg and non-veg thalis.
For those who would like to get a little tipsy or let their hair down or shake a leg, there are chic clubs and bars organising beach parties with live music and bonfires, and some fine wine.
Beaches, Auroville and East Coast Road
Needless to say, beach-hopping and water sports are part and parcel of a Pondicherry trip. There are many small but beautiful clean sandy beaches – Paradise, Rock, Serenity, Auro, Veerampattinam, Mahe, Karaikal – where you can spend time, frolicking amid the waves, go for some sports activities, just enjoy the sunrise and sunset and fill your lungs with some fresh air.
Beaches such as Paradise and Karaikal have water sports such as jet skiing, boating, backwater sailing, canoeing, and kayaking. Others have just the sun, sand and the sea to offer. The most popular of them, Paradise Beach or ‘Plage Paradiso’, is located on the edge of the town. You will need to take a ferry or boat ride to reach the golden beach, which is worth every penny. Pondicherry also has a backwater to offer at Chunnambar, at whose mouth the Paradise Beach is located. A boat ride along the clear still waters can be a refreshing experience.
A popular spot among birdwatchers is the Ousteri Wetland and National Park, a freshwater lake located around 10 km from the beach front, where boat rides are available.
Around 10 km from the town lies Auroville, a unique spiritual township for the followers of Sri Aurobindo – popular among people looking for some mental and spiritual reawakening.
The centre of attraction is the Matrimandir, a beautiful golden dome covered with hundreds of tiny discs. Visitors are typically allowed only up to a viewing point – a few hundred metres away. Entry to the dome is reserved for spiritual seekers and is subject to prior booking. A 100-year-old Banyan tree, its trunk 50 meters in diameter, adds another wow factor to the township, which is another world in itself.
A trip along the scenic East Coast Road, which connects the town with Chennai can be an icing on the cake. The nearly 800-km toll highway links Chennai with large parts of coastal Tamil Nadu, all the way down to Kanyakumari, but the Pondicherry stretch is about 150 km long – covering unspoiled beaches, mesmerising backwaters, picturesque hamlets, and cultural centres. Must-visit places are the Cholamandal artists’ village, Akkarai beach, Madras Crocodile Bank, Dakshin Chitra Museum, Kovalam surfing school, etc.
Points to remember
Pondicherry has a small regional airport but with limited flights. The Chennai airport is around 150 km or 3 hours away. The town is also connected with other parts of Tamil Nadu by a vast bus and cab network. You also have the option of taking the train to Puducherry.
It is better to stay closer to White Town to be able to freely move about. Sea-facing hotels at the Promenade can be expensive but the inner lanes offer good accommodation at affordable prices. Hindi and English are understood and spoken at tourist spots. Tamil is the main language. French is spoken in some parts too.
Make all bookings in advance for a hassle-free holiday. Summers can be hot and humid but remember that this part of India also experiences the northeast monsoon, which could mean a wet October and November, maybe also December. So don’t forget a raincoat or umbrella.
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