Earlier this year, when we visited IF.BE — a new design, architecture and arts space in the city — architect Kamal Malik took us on a tour of the erstwhile 145-year-old ice factory, spread over 10,000 sq. ft. Up a flight of stairs, he pointed out to us what seemed to be a restaurant in the making at the time.
Cut to present, and there’s already a gentle tinkle of the clinking of glasses and the sound of easy laughter falling on our ears as we wafted in on a weeknight to be introduced to Native Bombay — the 90-seater fine-dine restaurant serving pan-Indian cuisine.
All exposed bricks and walls with mood lighting that makes you feel warm and cosy, the restaurant on the first floor is an extension of the design philosophy downstairs, buzzing with renewed life while preserving the heritage narrative.
Chronicles of Negroni
Before we could proceed to be dazzled by what promises to be a gastronomical treat awaiting us upstairs, we stopped by at the Negroni Bombay Bar on the ground floor to experience the first of its kind only-Negroni concept bar in the city.
With a view of an old ice-producing machine in one corner and easy chairs surrounding the island bar, head mixologist Denzil Franklin creates interesting blends to appeal to newbies as well as connoisseurs of the Italian cocktail. The tagline on the coasters declares "Anything but bland", just the experience we were looking for.
Franklin was not available on the night we dropped in, but bartender Robin Remmy did a good job taking us from the sweeter fruit-forward Passion Sbagliato to the complex and bold Marmite-infused Negroni that is barrel-aged for two weeks. Our Negroni journey began with Coco & Curry, a velvety trip to south India that combines coconut-washed Campari with curry leaves-infused Rosso. It went down smoothly, leaving a subtle hint of curry leaves in our mouth. We followed it up with the crystal clear White Negroni where Campari is substituted with house-made Suze, a French aperitif. Floral and spicy, this one hit all the right notes on our palate. There’s a tapas menu here as well, with small plates such as Smoked Cheese Naan Bombs and Rogan Josh Lamb Tacos for those looking for something to munch on between the drinks.
Regional take
Popular chef Julia Child once said that one doesn’t need to cook fancy or complicated masterpieces — just good food from fresh ingredients. Award-winning chef Bhairav Singh, who leads the Native Bombay kitchen, is bound to agree. With his feet firmly planted in Ayurveda and Vedic cooking, Singh has created a menu that takes a deeper interest in Indian spices, local meats and techniques. “Normally, you would find that restaurants focus on one cuisine, say from Rajasthan or Goa or Kerala. Here, you get them all under one roof,” says the chef who comes with 24 years of culinary experience. The dishes here are regional and authentic, with Singh adding his expertise in plating and presentation. As for the ingredients, he explains that the idea is for guests to connect with them on a personal level.
The first of the dishes arrived on the table and there was an instant "ooh" and "aah" as we whipped out our phones to click Bombay Bomb — colourfully-plated Talegaon potato shells stuffed with dahi and chutneys and served with a side of chana jor garam, sev and pomegranate for a pop of colour and flavour.
The Paneer Paan Tikka, that came next, was a revelation with soft malai paneer and a filling of Benarasi betel-leaf purée, gulkand and fennel seeds. It is instantly cooling, especially if you have had a bite of the insanely spicy Naga Chilli Pork with bhoot jolokia and dalle khursani chilli. Highly recommended and worth the face turning red with the spices having a feast in your mouth.
Of flavours and textures
We cleared our palates with the Forbidden Falsa mocktail that brought back memories of gorging on the tangy berries during hot Delhi months. Inspired by highway dhabas, the NH48 Chicken Tikka that followed was deliciously soft and fresh, garnished lightly with chilli flakes and coriander seeds which made all the difference. With the Maska Prawns that came next, the chef did not go easy on the Kashmiri garlic butter, generously tipping the tiny bowl on top of the jumbo prawns sitting on a base of gud (jaggery) and tamarind paste. This one had us licking our fingers to get the last drop of that buttery garlic goodness in our mouths.
To end the meal on a wholesome note, Singh served us his famous Chur Chur Naan with Native Dal Makhni. For once, there was no sound of phone cameras or idle chit-chat as we sat relishing the soft naan with a golden brown crust and the dal with the chef’s secret recipe, although he did divulge that it had not even a tiny bit of cream in it — just a spot of white butter to give it that creaminess.
Good food with fresh ingredients, remember? Julia Child would be proud.
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