The only good thing about the scorching Indian summer is the gift of mangoes. From the tart green variety that goes into making pickles and aam panna to the luscious and fragrant ripe fruit that floods the market — mangoes add cheer and chutzpah to an otherwise dull season. Naturally the fruit finds itself on most plates, from salads and starters to mains and desserts. “Mangoes are so versatile that it pairs with most ingredients without overpowering the dishes. You can use it to give texture to salads, add them to seafood for a refreshing tang or make a purée to drizzle over pudding or custard. I love adding them to cocktails and mocktails,” says home chef Gitika Panchal.
Luckily, mangoes are not just wonderful in taste; they are also a storehouse of innumerable nutrients that boost immunity in summer. According to Ayurveda, mangoes are considered ‘heating’ to the body and hence the fruit is often eaten with yoghurt or milk in many parts of India. Cooling milk or yogurt helps to balance the heating energy of the fruit. Even modern day chefs do something similar — use the acidity of raw mango, or the sweetness of ripe mango, to balance or add a unique twist to dishes.
Nothing ‘aam’ about these dishes
From being laid on bruschetta, sandwiched between burger breads and replacing tomato in Bloody Mary to dominating the French toast — mango sure is one busy fruit this season. And since every state of India has its own eclectic variety of mangoes, chefs have a lot to play with and push the culinary boundaries.
Gaurav Ramakrishnan, head chef of Hyatt Centric, MG Road, Bengaluru, is giving the popular north Indian snack dahi bhalla a mango makeover. The chef’s version has mango purée mixed with the curd. “We use a combination of alphonso and sindhura mangoes for the blend. The tanginess of the curd with the sweetness of fresh mangoes makes this dish come alive,” he says. At Burrow, the newest restaurant in BKC, Mumbai, founder and chef Yashasvi Modi is using a delectable mango coconut broth to drench an almond and cheese stuffed chicken breast served with black rice. “It’s coconut-y, spicy, cheesy and nutty. The black rice gives an umami flavour while the mustard seeds, curry leaves and red chillies impart a unique Indian touch to this European dish,” says Modi.
The mango magic has even reached the summer staple curd rice. Akhil Multani, founder of cloud kitchen The Ghost Chef, is infusing the cooling and comforting summer favourite with fresh mango pulp. “The tang from the yogurt mixed with the sweetness of mangoes and the tempering of curry leaves and green chillies produce a burst of flavours. You can use any variety of mangoes. I use a combination totapuri, alphonso and langda,” says Multani.
Bandra’s popular Bloom Cafea makes a Mango French Toast. The showstopping dessert is made by soaking thick cut brioche bread in a mixture of eggs, melted butter, cinnamon and fresh mango pulp. “Once the bread is fully coated, it is pan-fried until golden brown on both sides. Finally, it is topped with fresh mango slices and chopped pistachios, which add a nutty flavour and a nice crunch,” says head chef Rahul Desai.
Even the humble shahi tukda is getting a lux treatment this year. Food blogger and recipe developer Rishita Thalluri’s mango shahi tukda uses a mango custard to sweeten the ghee-laced breads. “Topping the bread slices with a mango custard instead of the rabdi keeps the calories down while adding a fruity deliciousness to the dish,” says Thalluri.
The mango mania is not limited to dishes alone. Both raw and ripe mangoes are being used in cocktails. Mumbai’s Café Duco is putting a fun spin on the classic Bloody Mary with the sweetness of mangoes. The Mango Mary is made with mango juice that is spiked with chillies and hot sauce for an unforgettable kick.
They are also doing a mango version of the intensely strong and sweet Vietnamese coffee. Called Viet Mango the drink is a combination of condensed milk, espresso and mango puree. Yet another highlight is the Spiced Mango Margarita of BlueBop Café, Khar. The tequila based classic is spiked with fresh mango purée for a super fruity, citrusy and boozy spin. The chilli powder on the rim provides a little heat to balance out the sweetness of the mango.
Mango stars in the mouth-watering barfi at Bombay Sweet Shop. “We wanted to create a mithai with mangoes and everyone’s favourite childhood treat — the epic Jim Jam biscuit with a radiant jam centre. The mango peda is made by cooking mango purée with mawa and then filling them with a jammy, raspberry centre. A sweet, sour, summer-y delight,” shares Girish Nayak, chief mithaiwala at Bombay Sweet Shop.
Lastly, if you're in the mood for some adventure then the Mango Parle-G Shake at Bandra’s popular Jamjar Diner is a lot of fun. It blends the king of fruits — mangoes with the queen of Indian biscuits Parle-G along with vanilla ice cream for a thick shake which is then layered with mango coulis and Parle-G crumbs. Tastes surprisingly yummy. But if you are an old-fashioned mango purist, The Bombay Canteen is serving sliced hapus, banganapalle, mankurad, badami, chausa and other regional varieties as is along with a froyo.
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