Omega, Cartier models gain as Rolex keeps falling

The value of a group of five selected watches has gained 17% in a year. The price rise shows collectors and enthusiasts are looking for rare undervalued timepieces and, in some cases, smaller-sized watches.

The 36-millimeter diameter Omega Seamaster dive watch now fetches about $5,253. Subdial co-founder Christy Davis said the model is gaining because it captures both the trend toward more discreet luxury goods and smaller sizes.

The Santos Galbee, much smaller than the average watch at just 28 millimeters and trading at about $5,060, also speaks to the trend and is part of the rise in popularity of so-called “neo-vintage” watches from the 1990s, he said.

The top performing watch in the Bloomberg Subdial Watch Index in the past 30 days is also a smaller watch. The Rolex Datejust 36 outperformed other models made by Switzerland’s largest watch brand, gaining about 3.4% in a month and is trading at around $10,200.

The worst performer is the Rolex Daytona in steel and gold, which has declined about 7% to about $18,150.

Analysts at Morgan Stanley published a report earlier this week showing that while the most in-demand watches from Rolex, Patek and AP continue to trade above retail on the secondary market, prices are expected to continue falling in the third quarter due to elevated supply levels.