In Northern Finland, adjacent to the Gulf of Bothnia, Pohjola Route or Northern Route, a 900-km looping route, is as much a journey as it is a destination in itself. Launched in late 2021, it comprises several hundred kilometres of coastal roads but also skirts along many rivers that drain into the gulf, passes through lush forests of pine, fir and birch and undulates along with the country’s southernmost fells which turn into the most gorgeous winter landscape ideal for skiing and any number of activities. It can also be interspersed with visits to reindeer and husky farms. It is aptly called Finland in a nutshell because it has everything in miniature that the country is known for. The route is incredibly accommodating: it is possible to drive around the whole route or choose parts of it that work best, or it is possible to pitch up in Oulu, the biggest city, and do day or overnight trips.
Besides, opting for the Pohjola Route for a holiday makes immense sense. While most other European destinations, especially the more popular ones, are battling hordes of tourists and even backlash from locals, this part of Finland is vastly unknown outside the country. At the same time, as its epithet points out, the route gives a taste of what the country is like. Finally, what makes the route incredibly attractive is the fact that it is equally vibrant and engaging through the various seasons. But for those constrained for time, here are some highlights on the Pohjola Route not to be missed.
Oulu
Possibly the biggest highlight of the Pohjola Route is Oulu, a quirky city by the sea. It is a beautiful mix of history, heritage, culture and nature, which is possibly the reason why it has been designated the European Capital of Culture for 2026. And the city is gearing up for it by further burnishing up its culture credentials. Oulu’s history, as a city that burnt down a staggering ten times and yet rose each time, better and stronger each time, works in its favour. It is possibly this fiery history that has imbued it with a can-do and quirky attitude. It is laid back, creative, and full of life.
A beautiful cathedral with colourful stained-glass windows serves to orient the visitor while the remnants of an ancient castle, now painted an adorable pink, talks about the city’s history. Arty neighbourhoods, with public sculptures like the Ajan Kulku (time lapse; Oulu’s history told through a series of characters) and eye-catching murals and street art speak about its creative side.
The covered market in the centre of town with the statue of a rotund policeman and pretty cafes are convenient stops while walking around the city whose pretty, pastel coloured buildings go back to the beginning of the last century. But above everything else, Oulu is the city where the Air Guitar World Championships are held each August, a wildly popular and highly anticipated event.
Syote
This is Finland’s Southern most fell and is stunning no matter the season. Filled with unending forests of pine, fir and birch that carpet undulating landscape, it offers some magnificent sunsets, especially from the Ski Resort Iso-Syote which stands on the highest hill in the region. Trekking, fat-biking, and paddling on the rivers and lakes contrast with skiing and showshoeing in winter. Owing to the unhindered panoramic views, this is also among the best places to view the aurora borealis (northern lights).
Liminka
Liminka Bay along the Gulf of Bothnia is possibly Finland’s most famous bird wetland. Blessed with blue skies and fresh, crisp air, there’s something for everyone in Liminka but nothing is more popular than its bird life. It is known the world over for the resident and migratory birds that arrive here, and there’s something new to see throughout the year. Birdwatching towers, boardwalks and trails enable visitors to witness over 200 species of birds.
Rokua
Rokua Geopark is a unique and stunning landscape comprising three distinct landscapes spanning river, valley and dunes. Carved out during the last Ice Age, it is part of the UNESCO Global Geoparks programme.
Its unique geology is designed by nature and the rich local heritage. It is filled with dunes, kettle holes, swathes of forests filled with mushrooms, berries and surreal lichens, and sandy shorelines skirting lakes and rivers. In summer, visitors can trek, kayak, bike and go fishing while in winter, there’s skiing, snowshoeing and other winter activities, including night walks to gaze at the starlit sky.
A taste of Pohjola Route
Almost any meal, but most certainly at breakfast, little slices or cubes of a firm cheese speckled with red flakes are a staple. It has a tongue-twister of a name, but squeaky cheese as it is called, is apt. It has bite and sharpness that is flavourful and is not to be missed.
Some of the other things to be savoured on Pohjola Route include blood pudding soup, which is not actually as unappetising as it sounds, and is actually quite delicious.
But for those whose idea of a good meal is not to encounter blood on the menu, there’s much else to taste and relish. Such as kankky (a local thin crust pizza), creamy white fish/salmon soup with chunks of potato, rye bread and karelian pasties (mini rice pies). On Hailuotu island, a homegrown organic brewery dishes up beers that are refreshingly tingling and epitomize the island. Oulu is also big on sustainability and this is beautifully showcased by Oula restaurant’s three-course surprise menu that is done with locally-sourced ingredients. And for those looking for something quirky, there’s salty liquorice, to round off the meal.
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