In a small corner of Singapore, I meet Rajinikanth. It’s a mural of the superstar, spread across three storeys, wearing his trademark glares and a tiny crown. Titled Working Class Hero, the mural by Mohammed Zulkarnaen Bin Othman (Zero) is splashed on a wall in Singapore’s Little India.
It is, I am told during an art walk through the neighbourhood, a tribute to migrant workers. And, of course, a place for fans — Singapore has many — of the superstar. I discover this mural on my first visit to Singapore, in January 2020, a few months before the pandemic changed the world. A post-pandemic visit later, the mural is still there. It is one of the many little bits of India that I find in this island city.
Indian tourist arrivals in Singapore are among the fastest-growing in the island country post-pandemic — in the first nine months of 2023, 15 percent more Indians visited Singapore than in the corresponding period in 2022. India was the third largest tourist-generating market for Singapore, overtaking Malaysia and Australia, with 94,332 Indian tourists visiting in October 2023 alone.
Why does this tiny island city-state appeal to Indians? Here are some reasons:
Getting around
I use the MRT and public buses to get around, and they are comfortable, affordable and give me a nice tour of the surroundings.
There’s much to be fascinated about at Sentosa, an island resort getaway, and a tourist destination with activities from the SEA Aquarium, Universal Studios Singapore to Skyline Luge track and Adventure Cove Waterpark. There’s art splashed on walls and side benches.
There’s Chijmes, once a Catholic convent now converted into an entertainment and shopping centre.
I find peace and quiet at Armenian Church, which is the oldest Christian Church in Singapore. There’s much to admire about Singapore.
Familiar taste
A recent report by local gas supplier, City Energy, names biryani and Indian rojak (a stir-fried dish containing vegetables, prawn fritters, eggs, potatoes and more) among the top eight dishes enjoyed in Singapore.
Singaporeans, like us Indians, love to eat.
And, beyond the snazzy Best Bars and Michelin-starred restaurants are the place they all go to eat: hawker centres. On my first introduction to these food institutions, I am amazed at the sheer variety of food, which is nourishing, familiar, comforting and equally importantly, affordable.
A favourite is Lau Pa Sat, which is a historical building and national monument, with a distinctive octagonal shape, soaring arches, and slender Victorian columns beneath which people eat noodles, chicken rice, curries, kebabs, parathas and more. Here, I find Nasi Lemak Ayam Telang (which is on the Michelin guide for three consecutive years) and get my fill of Nasi Lemak — a filling, fragrant meal of coconut and pandan infused rice, fried dried anchovies, an egg and fried chicken.
In Chinatown, I visit a hawker centre that is inside a shopping centre. My food tour through the place introduces me to crispy cuttlefish, sweet potato balls, chendol (an iced sweet dessert), and the unique sachima — a crispy and chewy Chinese sweet with egg (like rice krispies).
There’s good and affordable food to be found across Singapore. I am particularly mesmerised by the snacks, which feature familiar flavours like rice, jaggery or palm sugar, and coconut. There’s ondeh ondeh (pandan-infused palm sugar balls dusted with coconut), the tapioca flour and coconut milk kueh lapis, which is layered like bebinca; and chwee kueh — steamed rice cakes with different toppings.
Mini India
One of the more vibrant neighbourhoods in Singapore is the aforementioned Little India. This is where I go to find captivating street art and murals (like the Rajinikanth one), stunning architecture, Indian food at restaurants and in markets, and heritage exhibitions.
Once a place for cattle herders and lime pits, the area has been home to Tamil Indians since the 19th century, and is always buzzing. During a recent visit, all lit up with Diwali lights and decorations, it was a sight to behold.
Culturally, too, there are two famous temples here — Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple dedicated to the goddess Kali, and the Sri Srinivasa Perumal Temple.
I find stunning Corinthian pillars at the Abdul Gafoor Mosque, and a tall Buddha statue at the Temple of a Thousand Lights. At the Mustafa Centre, there’s designer wear for cheap. Singapore’s largest wet market is the Tekka Centre, which is great for little souvenirs.
Most excitingly, beyond the smells and sights of this little piece of India, are finding murals at each corner. There is the Traditional Trades of Little India with dhobis and astrologers, jasmine flowers, and dancers at Kathak.
My favourite spot in Little India is actually Chinese. The two-storey House of Tan Teng Niah dates back to the 1900s and is one of the few remaining Chinese structures here. The villa is now a riot of pastel hues and a preferred photo spot.
Culturally rich neighbourhoods
Singapore is home to some diverse and fascinating hoods. Beyond the obvious ones — Little India, Chinatown, and Marina Bay — are tiny pockets offering history, culture, food, and art.
I start with Kampong Gelam, where Singapore’s old and new meet in hip bars and trendy boutiques, old stores, art galleries and traditional eateries. There’s history to be found at the golden-domed Sultan Mosque and the Malay Heritage Centre on the grounds of a former palace. After dark, Haji Lane comes alive with buskers, live music bars, and hip restaurants.
Over at Holland Village, once home to plantations, and nurseries, there’s still history and a European-influenced legacy in its shophouses. At Tiong Bahru, I find a 1930s style of architecture called Streamline Moderne. Another HBD is Everton Park, which has its own hawker centre, cute cafes and old confectionary stores, and Baba House, a heritage house-cum-traditional museum.
Walking around the streets, I am mesmerised by the colourful houses and shopfronts. In Joo Chiat, I find more colourful shophouses patterned with ceramic tiles, and ornate facades. This buzzing neighbourhood is where I eat the famous Katong laksa, and Nonya delicacies, and browse through Peranakan outfits like the kebaya and beaded slippers. For an introduction to Peranakan culture, I visit the Intan, a private home museum, and Katong Antique House — both of which offers tours and a glimpse of the richness of their culture. The shopfronts remind me of Fontainhas in Goa, home to traditional, beautiful, colourful houses that are a big hit with visitors.
My favourite part of Singapore is how it embraces and highlights its multiculturalism. It reminds me of my home in Mumbai, which is similarly home to a mix of different cultures and communities. Though, of course, there’s no mural of Rajnikanth here.
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