A hill station in the Nilgiris, Tamil Nadu's Coonoor is the best way to experience a slice of the Western Ghats without the trappings of being a touristy locale. You can fly down to Coimbatore and take a cab, bus or train to Coonoor. Here is our 36-hour guide to soak in the sounds and sights of this charming town.
8 am: Breakfast at Hotel Sri Lakshmi
Start your day with a simple South Indian vegetarian breakfast at Hotel Sri Lakshmi in Lower Coonoor. Onion uttapam, masala dosa and Kerala parotta are some of the dishes that you can try here apart from idli and vada. The food is served with chutney and sambar and is simple and fresh and fuels you for the long walks on your trip to Coonoor.
9 am: Sims Park
A beautiful park in the middle of the town, Sims Park is spread over 12 hectares and is home to several flowering plants. Named after JD Sims, a British Officer, the park was converted into a garden in 1874 and is known for housing some rare and unusual species of plants and trees. There is also a small place for boating here. When here check out the Glass House, Lily Pond and Rose Garden and keep your eyes peeled for the Queensland Karry Pine and Rudraksha Trees. An annual fruits and vegetable show is held by the Department of Horticulture and sees several footfalls as well.
12 pm: Lambs Rock
Lamb’s Rock is a viewpoint from where all you can see is the undulating blue Nilgiris mountains swathed in a landscape of lush green landscapes. A trek will take you up here and you can see the Dolphin’s Nose en route as well. A must do is to check the weather forecast as the views can be covered in fog which would be a disappointment. Do carry your binoculars and be aware of monkeys enroute. Littering here will attract stiff fines so make sure you carry your trash back.
2 pm: Lunch at Café Diem
Café Diem is a quaint restaurant perched on a cliff with amazing views of the Bandi Sholai Forest and the tea gardens beyond. Specialising in vegetarian vegan and gluten free food they serve European and Mediterranean cuisine. Everything from breads, sauces, pastas, and even sun-dried tomatoes are home made. They are known for their soups and salads, particularly the poached pear goat cheese salad with a chilli passion fruit dressing and the pumpkin coconut soup which every patron orders. The goat cheese stuffed ravioli in saffron sauce is another favourite and their thin crust sourdough pizzas are the best. The pomegranate cheesecake, the lemon tart and the nolen gur ice cream are a must try. Entry is only on reservations.
3 pm: Law’s Falls
A beautiful waterfall about 7 km away, this is a place that is relatively lesser known in the town. The water flows in between large rocks and is set amidst scenic natural vistas. It is best to take the help of a local for directions when you reach here.
4 pm: Tranquilitea
This is a family-owned enterprise and where you can sample a gourmet tea tasting experience that will help you appreciate the nuances of tea and its aromas and flavours. You can understand what goes into making gourmet Nilgiri teas. The experience must be reserved well in advance, and it will take you through a tea tasting session where you can appreciate the body, taste, and flavours of the teas of the region. You can also buy tea from here.
6 pm: Shopping
For some retail therapy you can head to the Coonoor Main Bazaar where you can find local items and winter wear but be prepared to bargain. The Tibetan Market has shops selling woolens, beadwork accessories and woven bags. The Upper Bazaar Road has some amazing stores that sell spices. Green Shop is a store where you can find local handicrafts as well as several kinds of organic honey, toda embroidery work and chocolates.
7.30 pm: Open Kitchen Pizzeria
Head for dinner to the Open Kitchen Pizzeria for some interesting pizzas like Hung Curd with roasted garlic bell pepper, Tandoori Chicken and onions and Ham and Cheese variants. All the pizzas are whole wheat, hand tossed and stone baked. They also have bacon and beef burgers as well as sides like French Fries and Cheese toasts. For dessert try 'Oh Susanna!' that has hot fudge brownies, salted caramel, and vanilla ice cream. Don't count your calories.
DAY 2
7.45 am: Toy Train to Ooty
Arrive early to the train station and grab a quick bite on one of the stalls here and a cup of tea to board the toy train that is an experience like no other. You can book yourself on a second-class ticket that is easy on the pocket as there is not much of a difference between the first- and second-class coaches. Ideally book the ticket in advance as this is a train ride that is much in demand. The train forks its way through Aruvankadu, Ketti and Lovedale among craggy mountains and scenic vistas that make the journey worth the one and half hour ride memorable.
The Nilgiri Mountain Railways that was built by the Britishers is a fine example of design ingenuity as the track passes through a steep gradient. Naturally, UNESCO has designated this as a World Heritage site. Soak in the views of the dense shola forests, hills, waterfalls, rivers, and mist clad mountains in this 19-kilometer journey. You can come back to Coonoor on the toy train at 9.15 from Ooty (or Udagamandalam) as well. It’s a joy ride that is a fitting way to end your trip to the Nilgiris.
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