One can’t talk about Anegundi without mentioning its richer cousin Hampi. Just a coracle ride away from the latter, Anegundi’s rocky terrain - punctuated by banana and paddy plantations, is similar to that of Hampi. But while Hampi offers all the history that a famous UNESCO World Heritage Site should, the older Anegundi is a welcome rural getaway from the grandeur of it all.
Anegundi village
A small village in Gangavathi taluka now, Anegundi is believed to have once been the monkey kingdom of Kishkindha from the Indian epic Ramayana. In fact, one of the hills called Anjanadri Hill, is reputed to be the birthplace of the much revered Monkey God, Hanuman. Another legend is that kings of the mighty Vijayanagar Empire used Anegundi as a base for their elephants and hence the name derived from ‘Aanai’ which means elephant in the local language.
Anjanadri HillToday, the human inhabitants of the place seem very comfortable with their share of history. Sometimes, alarmingly so! It’s fine if you aren’t taken in by a centuries-old structure that has been so much a part of life around that it no longer seems extraordinary. But when it is used as a parking space, there might be cause for worry. Gagan Mahal (Sky Palace), once home to Vijaynagara Empire royalty, is now used as a municipal building. Even the Aramane Palace is in a dilapidated state.
Having seen the grand edifices of Hampi, we didn’t think it made sense to visit the other sightseeing spots in Anegundi. Besides, our focus was to see sustainable tourism in action. A local NGO, The Kishkinda Trust, has been training female residents as craftswomen, using locally available material like banana fibre to fashion handbags, caps, baskets etc. The fact that this is not a volume game is evident by prices which are more suited to wallets of foreign tourists and city slickers. However these and other items like cushion covers are so unique and take so many hours to make that the tag seems justified.
Cusion CoverYou can see signs of a few of those trained so having started their own enterprises. That would count as a success for Shama Pawar, founder of the Kishkinda Trust, who has now moved on after helping locals retool livelihoods such that they suit modern times, yet don’t disrupt the environment and are in sync with their heritage.
While at the Trust office we sign up for a bird watching tour with a former volunteer, now a trained guide. Even though migratory birds that visit these parts during December-February don’t seem visible in big numbers as it is still November, the experience is one of a kind. Backpacks, camera and binoculars at hand, we walk down to a lake that’s filled with the prettiest pink lilies.
Lily Lake in Anegundi
Right away, we spot a Purple Heron craning its serpentine neck behind one of those ubiquitous, brown boulders that are a dominating feature of the landscape in this part of the Bellary district. Our hearts pumping in excitement at having seen this bird for the first time in our lives, we ease ourselves slowly onto a flat boulder so we don’t disturb the birds. There are kingfishers diving from telephone wire perches into the water, wagtails hopping around looking for insects, egrets following cows and herons gazing into the watery bowl that holds their food.
Grey Heron at Lily Lake
After a while, we move on to the riverside. The Tungabhadra River, which starts and flows through Karnataka state, has shaped the life of people living on its banks in hamlets and erstwhile cities of the mighty Vijayanagara Empire for long. In fact, over a long period of time floods in the river deposited so much silt on Hampi, the capital of the Empire, that the city was lost to the world. Excavation by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) brought the magnificent structures back to life. Even now, the ASI is seen carrying out excavation and restoration activities.
In Anegundi, the river remains a focus of daily activities like bathing and washing. Its marine life sustains livelihoods of fishermen and its waters provide a means of connecting the village with Hampi and other areas. Having had a glimpse into this life, we call an end to this visit to a destination of slow travel called Anegundi.
How to get to Anegundi
The nearest rail heads are Hospet or Munirabad, depending on where you board the train from. The nearest airport is at Hubli. If you are already in Karnataka, state transport buses will take you to Hampi. You need to get off at the Gangavathi stop to reach Anegundi.
When to go
November or December are best. It’s pleasant during winter (October-February), but summers (March-May) are very hot and dry. I wouldn’t advise visiting during monsoon either.
Where to stay
Uramma Heritage Home or Cottages, Shama’s Cottages. Else, you could stay at Hampi and do a day trip.
What to see
Navabrindavanam, Ranganatha Temple, Anegundi Fort and Durga Temple inside, Huchappayana Matha temple, Anjaneya hill and Temple, Kamal Mahal and Pampa Sarovar.
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