We can’t all get away to Mexico City or Baja for a vacation based on food. But you can come close to that here in Mumbai, especially if you hit the newest restaurant — Mezcalita. Because right past the lime green bat doors on Marine Drive is a Mexican street fair complete with cherry interiors, fun food and some seriously good cocktails.
Mezcalita (named after the mezcal based drink) is the brainchild of Vicky Singh who launched Mumbai first standalone Mexican restaurant Sanchos way back in 2008. The outlet shut in 2016 creating a huge lacuna for good Mexican fare in the city. “While it's true that some attempts at Mexican cuisine in Mumbai may not have been successful in the past, we hope to change that with Mezcalita. Mumbai being a cosmopolitan city with a diverse population, there is a huge demand for Mexican food,” says Singh, who is a partner at Mezcalita along with Dope Coffee Roasters’ Rizwan Amlani. Singh is also the co-founder of Slink & Bardot.
Welcome to the party
Mezcalita is a visually impressive and happy space. Much of that vibe comes from the colourful murals by Mexican artist Senkoe.
“It just seemed too much of a coincidence, serendipity so to speak. Rizwan and I had discussed we wanted some artwork on the walls. Senkoe was in Mumbai for two months for St+art. His work is fabulous and the murals only add to the space,” says Singh. Mexican flags, Aztec-print table tops, brightly coloured wicker chairs, hand-painted Spanish signs and strings of bulbs add to the carnival-like atmosphere. There are snug booths to hide into as well as plush sofas to lounge. Bottles of small-batch tequila, mezcal and agave wink from the brightly lit bar even before you get to the tables.
How’s the food?
There’s incredible diversity within the regional cuisines of Mexico, from tangy shrimp ceviches to lush, hours-simmered mole and beyond. It’s impossible to account for them all. Mezcalita showcases a good mix of the familiar and favourites along with some daring dishes. Man behind the kitchen chef Pablo Benitez’s credentials are impressive. Before coming on board Mezcalita he was in charge of the iconic Le Cirque in Mexico and also professor for Mexican pre-Hispanic cuisine.
Plates come hot and cold, big and small, and the best tactic is to order a melange from each section. The guacamole which comes with corn and plantain chips is a joy to plunge into it. Aguachile Jicama, a turnip salad, is another tantalising dish. The flavours are like a culinary orchestra: first you taste the subtle sweetness of the turnips, then comes the softness of the avocados, a high note of chillies, followed by a crescendo of the aguachile (spiced water). Chef Pablo knows the Indian palate well having been to the country on multiple occasions (this is his 13th time). “It was easy for me to make this menu as Mexican and Indian cuisine share a lot of similarities and ingredients. We both eat spicy with a lot of condiments and have a rich vegetarian culture,” he says.
The humblest dish that stole my heart is the Nachos corn Chile a simple plate of beans with diced onions and tomatoes blended with chipotle and cheese. The nachos are served on the side so they stay crisp till the last bite. Then there are tacos stuffed with mushrooms, juicy pork confit and even shredded lamb and panuchos (soft corn tortillas) smeared with black bean paste and topped with portobello or pork.
Considering the location (south Mumbai) Mezcalita has a wide vegetarian selection, including a salad of cactus (nopales) imported from Mexico. “Mexicans eat a lot of nopales. It’s super tasty and healthy. It’s also one of the cheapest ingredients in Mexican gastronomy. But it’s not available here in Mumbai, so we import it,” says Pablo. The bold, spicy and legendary habanero also makes an appearance in a starter with chicken, onions and red radish. It’s unapologetically spicy and served with horchata the sweet, cinnamon-laced Mexican drink. It’s evident that chef Pablo is more interested in keeping things real. All the dishes I tasted had a pronounced ruggedness and simplicity to them.
On the drinks side, the spirit was evident in the citrusy La Pomela with mezcal, pomelo soda, sweet lime, in-house grapefruit syrup and campari salt. Not much of a tequila or mezcal person I stuck to the immensely drinkable gin cocktail Compadre. The yuzu and pickled cucumber brine drink was just the refreshment I needed on a hot, sweltering Mumbai afternoon.
There were appreciative oohs and aahs as the Tres Leches arrived. It’s pleasantly different from the ones we have been fed so far — a sponge cake swirling in a pool of condensed milk. This one is a "pull me up" crowned by resplendent whipped cream, strawberries and almonds. While the cake did cry for more condensed milk I just couldn’t stop devouring it. On the way out, I notice dressed-up geckos on the wall and a purple moped that will soon be all over Instagram. Mezcalita is one swinging party I plan to experience again and again.
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