The minimalist décor and the bare walls of Rahul Akerkar’s new restaurant Ode in Worli ensure that your eyes stray and then linger on the lone framed photograph. Photographer Sunhil Sippy’s camera has captured an image of what he calls “unorganised chaos” — a sea of people gathered at Girgaum Chowpatty for Ganpati visarjan. Interestingly, this monochromatic work features no idols, only a beach teeming with people paying their respect to the Elephant God. It is an ode to the city that never sleeps and apt for the restaurant which, according to Akerkar, is all about sharing, enjoying a meal together and creating memories.
After his fine-dine restaurant Qualia shut shop in 2021 during the pandemic, the chef moved bag and baggage to Goa and decided to open a restaurant there. Fate intervened and the 64-year-old restaurateur, credited for introducing the idea of European fine-dining with his restaurant Indigo in 1999, found himself collaborating with the Aditya Birla Group to open Ode in Mumbai.
The concrete grey interiors by Samira Rathod are warm and inviting and a large mesh cloud-like lighting installation hovers above a section of the dining space. A semi-private lounge area by the bar, the linear seating area and an open kitchen that runs the length of the dining room allows diners to mingle with each other as well as with the chefs at work. In fact, on the night we dined there, Akerkar could be seen walking up to the guests’ tables to have a casual chat with them every once in a while.
The deeply personal menu retains his signature unfussy style while paying homage to the chef’s mixed Maharashtrian and European heritage. Ash Moghe, the Chef De Cuisine at Ode informs us that the flavours have been designed towards charred, pickled and smoked techniques. “We use a lot of local ingredients. Our seafood comes from Kochi, flour which comes from Bhopal and peppercorn from Assam, etc. It is ingredient-forward food and we are not trying to force feed ingredients together. If a chicken is beautifully done and needs one or two elemental flavours, then that’s all we will do,” he explains.
Indeed, the first of the dishes that makes its way to our table is the Gougeres with tomato chutney. The baked savoury choux pastry mixed with parmesan cheese and herbs pairs beautifully with the chunky tomato chutney. The Burnt Cucumber features textures of cucumber — fresh, pickled and charred — with a tangy kiwi salsa at the bottom topped off with a peanut thecha that takes inspiration from the garlic-peanut chutney used in vada pavs. While it is an innovative way of showcasing the ingredient, it is bland on the palate.
The Charred Cabbages, on the other hand, will draw us back to Ode. Three varieties of cabbage — Chinese, white and purple — marinated with a cumin glaze are charred on an open hearth. Paired with a creamy brunt garlic raita and topped with fresh green apple zhug, this is proof of ingredient-forward done the right way.
The server suggests the Apricot and Rum-Glazed Pork Ribs and we are intrigued by the use of the Khandeshi Kala Masala Mole in it. We thank the server in our heads as we dig into the deliciously meaty ribs resting on a sauce made of bitter chocolate and the Khandeshi Kala Masala, which as Moghe tells us, has a nostalgic childhood association for him of eating bhakri with chicken made with the traditional Maharashtrian masala. It is a match made in pork heaven.
Our vodka-based Bleating Russki with goat cheese and strawberry has a much-appreciated savoury aftertaste and Over the Wall, with tequila and Bhavnagari chilli takes a charred route that offers a rustic taste from the smoked pineapples. A lot of thought has gone into the beverage programme at Ode which shines through with its familiar ingredients and unique flavour pairings.
We wish we could say that about their star dessert The Best Damn Tarte Tatin. An excessively sweet caramelised apple pastry with pickled celery shavings misses the balance. Instead, we find ourselves reaching out for the fresh Mandarin sorbet, a tart and indulgent dessert with harmonious sweet and sour notes; just right for a hearty after-meal pick-me-up.
Meal for two: Approx Rs 3,500-4,000, including a drink each. Ode is open at Ground floor, Raheja Altimus, Gate No. 4, Worli, Mumbai.
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