The rise of the craft chocolate industry in India can be gauged from the fact that up until 2017-18, there were just four or five such brands in the country. Cut to 2023, and there are more than 20 such brands and the number is only increasing.
In this potent atmosphere, chocolatier Ketaki Churi and bean-to-bar chocolate connoisseur Patricia Cosma recognised the need to increase awareness among consumers about craft chocolate and came up with The Indian Cacao and Craft Chocolate Festival in Bengaluru in November last year. This year, the duo has brought their festival to Mumbai this weekend, with the aim of introducing Indian cacao farmers, bean-to-bar chocolate makers, pastry chefs, and chocolatiers to the consumer through exhibitions, workshops, and conferences.
The two-day festival will allow chocolate enthusiasts to indulge in the craft chocolate experience through activities that provide an insight into the creation of chocolates, the versatility of Indian cacao bean, chocolate pairing with cheese, a music and chocolate tasting, and an introspective card game session with cacao, each session unveiling the various aspects of Indian-origin chocolate.
One of the first farms to start growing cacao in south India commercially, the Varanashi Organic Farm in Dakshina Kannada was certified organic in 1997. The cacao there is grown along with coconut, jackfruit, areca nut, nutmeg, banana and pepper along with other herbs. “It’s a mixed farm with great microbiology in the soil that enhances the soil quality and micronutrients in the cacao pods, resulting in great quality of cacao beans,” Partha Varanashi, proprietor of Varanashi Organic Farm tells us.
Although the farm has been around for almost 60 years, it is only a decade or so earlier that they started seeing a demand from coffee estates and small craft chocolate makers for their cacao. “Lately, we have also been supplying to Subko Speciality Coffee and hosting a number of tree-to-bar chocolate workshops with Ketaki. The craft chocolate makers give a higher price to the farmers. We get almost 50-70 per cent premium for our cacao through craft chocolate manufacturers, which is fantastic,” he says.
At the festival, Varanashi’s session will introduce people to the regenerative farming methods used at their farm, which involve the use of biofertilizers, organic manures and natural farming methods to increase the degradation in plantation, resulting in better quality cacao. He believes that there is a huge potential for Indian cacao not just in international markets but also in domestic markets. “Craft chocolates, unlike mass-produced chocolates, have 50-80 per cent cacao which is high in nutrients,” he says. Varanashi, who is also a swimming coach who has worked for the 2019 world championship, adds that cacao has the potential to be in the superfood space in the market and with craft chocolates on the rise, they are looking forward for this market to grow in India.
Another festival participant, Akhil Grandhi who founded Bon Fiction craft chocolate a year ago, shares that he has seen a rapid awareness among people about craft chocolates and appreciation for better quality chocolates. “They are willing to explore new Indian-origin products and flavours,” says Grandhi, who is bringing their most popular flavours such as The Mango Menace, The Roasted Almond Revival and their single-origin 73 per cent dark chocolate Out In The Dark to the festival.
One of the reasons for the increase in awareness, he believes, is the pandemic that led people to research food products that are a healthier choice. “They realised that craft chocolates made using good quality cacao beans and good chocolate making processes can give them health benefits. There is also a willingness to spend money on such products,” he says.
Cosma, who co-founded the festival along with Churi, believes there is a huge potential for Indian craft chocolates in the market, owing to the sheer size of the country as well as the fact that not only are we consumers, but also the growers of cacao in the country. “I think of craft chocolates as a cheap luxury,” adds Churi, stating that while a good bottle of wine might cost anywhere upwards of Rs 10,000, a good Indian craft chocolate bar costing Rs 300-400 is a great way to enjoy luxury without burning a hole in your pocket. “We can start appreciating our country’s origins through cacao and start supporting our farmers by buying craft chocolates,” she concludes.
The Indian Cacao and Craft Chocolate Festival is being held at IF.BE, Mumbai, on February 18 and 19.
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