A calm, inviting energy set within timeless elegant, natural surroundings, defines the newly launched Marāi at Arpora, in north Goa. Marāi in the Māori language (indigenous to New Zealand) means courtyard. The expansive courtyard at Marāi, spread over 5,000 sq. ft, includes a retail store, delicatessen, bakery and lab, a 60-seater al fresco restaurant, and is enveloped in foliage and twisting vines.
The air is redolent with tranquility and bonhomie and, yet, the buzz is unmistakable. Marāi urges you to relax and linger longer. “That’s what Marāi stands for – a communal dining space. It is an extension of my home table and is all about conversations, slow-cooked, ingredient-led food in an easy-going atmosphere at an unhurried pace,” sums up its founder, Malini Akerkar.
Having been a trailblazer with her chef-cum-restaurateur husband Rahul Akerkar, Malini has, in the past, redefined fine-dining in Mumbai with restaurants like Indigo, Tote on the Turf, Qualia and has now forayed into Goa, this time with her daughter Amalia, who comes armed with a degree in the art of international bread baking and hands-on experience at a Michelin-starred restaurant.
Design elements
Shrouded in greenery, exuding a tropical vibe, this place offers the ultimate al fresco dining experience. The seating areas are spread across the courtyard – in the pavilion, bar area and in the form of a striking communal table, just outside the display kitchen glass window. The upcycled, but chic furniture, is comfortable and denotes understated elegance. The bright murals on the walls, a la rural Goa, add a pop of colour. Each area is distinct, yet related.
Food & beverage
“Elevated comfort food with global influences,” is how, Malini prefers to describe the F&B offerings. The kitchen is helmed by Chef Rishad Ginwalla, trained in slow-cooking and with proven expertise in global kitchens. He offers a thoughtfully curated menu, which is limited, but ingredient-centric, with an array of crowd-pleasers. His inimitable creative streak shines through effortlessly in many dishes, yet the Japanese, Middle-Eastern and European inspirations are distinctive.
Ingredients are the key, as Akerkar works closely with the farming community and dips into local produce, as far as possible. She has embarked upon the road to sustainability, but admits candidly, “it’s a long and on-going journey.”
Sipping my Big Papa mocktail, with papaya and ginger ale, which is invigorating, I wait for my meal, enjoying the music. A colourful cheeseboard arrives with local, as well as, artisanal cheese. The accompaniments - unusual dips and sauces, jhakya crackers and sourdough crisps (courtesy the Bakery Head, Supriya Asgaonkar), catch my attention. One bite and my palate surrenders. The beetroot ketchup and caramelised onions jam, stand out and lend able support to the top-notch quality cheese.
A seemingly familiar Tofu aona gomae, is the small plate, I tuck into next. Nori-wrapped, seared tofu, I discover, is skilfully combined with a medley of spinach and red amaranth, dressed in a creamy sesame-based dressing, with a hint of chilli oil. Executed with precision and with creativity at its core, this one leaves my palate satiated.
Just as my palate is stupefied with this flavour-bomb, the citrusy and refreshing Mahi Mahi Ceviche, tiny chunks of fish doused in passionfruit leche de tigre, further sets my taste buds tingling. The tangy and sweet flavours, juxtaposed with the crunch, are pure ecstasy. The Feni Fried Chicken, unfortunately, snaps me out of my reverie. The feni flavours are heady and distinct, the chicken succulent, but the soggy encasing, makes for a disappointing bar bite.
The Choriz gold bars are a rare treat. Stuffed with Goa’s lip-smacking choriz, the outer covering – a crispy bao, adds the right amount of crunch. The accompanying smoked egg yolk and honey jam, hits the right spot.
For mains, the in-house pastas, are naturally not-to-be-missed. I give in to my weakness, Spaghetti Carbonara. A well-balanced offering, executed to perfection.
Chef Rishad and his team effortlessly create punchy statement dishes with extraordinary quality ingredients using traditional cooking techniques, served with house-made sauces and dips. No fuss, no gimmicks, just pure good food.
The menu is partial to meat lovers (read, Marāi smash beef burger, Lamb neck skewers, Beef tataki, Miso roast Half Chicken) but vegetarians will not be short-changed. Must-try dishes for them include the Beetroot Tartare, Caldinho, with Marāi’s own little spin and the Two-sheet Mushroom lasagna.
Whether or not you have a sweet tooth, desserts by Pastry chef Sherryann Shirname can’t be skipped. Try the Charred chocolate, sesame vanilla. Essentially a baked mousse with sesame brittle and Chantilly, it is absolutely decadent. The Basque cheesecake is another standout dessert.
The bar offerings include well-executed and innovative cocktails like the Patrao’s Punch and The Marāi Sour.
Expertly prepared, thoughtfully sourced, the food at Marāi, is every bit as joyful as the setting. I have already planned my second visit.
Where: HQ69+JQM, Vegas Vaddo Road, Arpora, Goa 403519
Timings: 7 pm onwards, for dinner only
Phone: 9920201231
Cost for two: Approx. Rs 2,500 plus taxes, with alcohol
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