Samovars brewing Kashmiri kahwa are a common sight in markets and homes in J&K during the long Kashmiri winter. The traditional Kashmiri tea is flavoured with cardamom and infused with liquorice, cloves, ginger, cinnamon and arnebia benthamii, commonly known as Kahzaban, to warm the body up as the snow paints the Valley white.
To make kahwa more flavoursome and aromatic, crushed dry fruits— almonds, walnuts, cashews—are added. For deeper flavour saffron, honey, rose petals, black pepper, dried cherries, apricots, apples, dates and raisins are also used.
As the temperature dips in many parts of north, east and north-east India, try these kahwas at home. If you don't have the traditional copper kettle locally known as Samovar, brew in tea kettles covered with cozies, or even flasks.
Kahwa recipes
Some of the recipes of kahwa prepared in Kashmir include Shangri kahwa (liquorice tea) an age old home remedy for relieving colds, cough and certain respiratory discomforts; Khoje kahwa, a simple traditional kahwa flavoured with dry fruits, rose petals, saffron and honey mostly consumed by royal and rich families to stay warm during winters and keep respiratory diseases at bay; Badyan kahwa, a concoction infused with fennel seeds to treat colic, constipation bloating and other digestive issues; Mythe kahwa or Dodh Kahwa, made with milk and served during marriages and other important ceremonies. Milk is added to this type of kahwa along with skin-less almonds. Dodh kahwa is a nutritional drink given the amount of milk and almonds in it.
Significance of kahwa in Kashmiri culture
People in the Valley make and sip hot cups of kahwa during special occasions—festivals, weddings, political events and important ceremonies. Besides this kahwa is also offered to guests during condolence meetings and is also offered in shrines as benediction.
Origin of kahwa
Regarding the origin of kahwa, Kashmir’s veteran satirist and poet Zareef Ahmad Zareef tells Moneycontrol that the cuisine came to Kashmir through Mughal rulers which is why kahwa was also known as Mughal chai (tea of Mughals). “Kahwa is actually a Persian word and had come to Kashmir during the Mughal era. Prior to this people in Kashmir were drinking ‘Machran Chai made of a particular herb. After Mughals introduced kahwa in Kashmir people have been drinking it in clay tea cups and bone china cups to keep themselves warm and free from various respiratory ailments,” 80-year-old Zareef adds.
Kahwa according to Srinagar’s Chef Yaseen is a concoction of different spices prepared in various ways. “According to my knowledge kahwa came to Kashmir through silk route and the beverage is also consumed in the Arab world who call it Gahwa or simply kahwa. Besides simple kahwa I have been adding plum, mint and ginger to kahwa,” says Yaseen who is also a faculty member at Institute of Hotel Management Srinagar.
Where to have kahwa in Kashmir
A pure saffron kahwa is available near saffron town Pampore along Srinagar-Jammu national highway.
At Noor Mohammad Bhat’s saffron store, one of Kashmir’s oldest saffron shops located in Lethpora, Pampore tourists not only buy pure saffron here but also drink hot cups of saffron kahwa flavoured with crushed dry fruits. “We have been selling saffron for decades but for the past 23 years we kept Samovar here to prepare and sell hot cups of saffron kahwa. The kahwa is sold at just Rs. 20 per cup only to welcome tourists and visitors,” says Bhat’s son Ashiq Hussain.
Every morning Mushtaq Hussain Akhoon takes his Shikara to the floating vegetable market on the Dal Lake and sells steaming hot Kashmiri kahwa to the visitors.
Akhoon who is also known as "kahwa man" of Kashmir claims that he used 16 ingredients to create what he calls, “unique kahwa”. “Kahwa as Kashmir’s tradition was dying until I gave it a new life by preparing it with 16 ingredients. I use dry fruits, herbs, saffron, lemon and honey to make it like an Ayurvedic drink and currently one cup is sold at Rs 50," Akhoon tells Moneycontrol.
Health benefits of kahwa
Besides keeping bodies warm, kahwa, according to doctors, has immense health benefits. For example, research suggests that arnebia benthamii (kahzaban) has got a broad spectrum antimicrobial and antioxidant activity and has a promising potential for treating diseases.
Both Zareef and Akhoon claim that kahwa has the ability to burn fat while suppressing hunger, it relaxes the nervous system, it enhances blood circulation, keeps skin healthy, develops immunity and treats various respiratory ailments.
Regarding the health benefits of kahwa, Kashmir’s famous Unani doctor Hakeem Naseer Ahmad Shah, founder of Unani and Panchkarma Group of Hospitals, says kahwa being more nutritional is better than all forms of tea.
"In terms of medicinal value and health benefits kahwa is far better than sugar or salt tea. For example, cinnamon present in kahwa reduces cholesterol, it is anti-allergic and works against viruses including influenza. Similarly ginger used in kahwahas anti-inflammatory, anti-allergic, antiviral and antibacterial properties. During flu or cold it can also act as expectorant and help clear mucus or phlegm from the chest," says Shah who has MD in Unani medicine.
He adds that 30 chemicals have been identified in liquorice which is added in kahwa for children suffering from cough, common cold and fever.
"Even liquorice has shown tremendous results in patients suffering from chronic obstructive pulmonary disease (COPD), bronchitis and sinusitis. The rose petals in kahwa act as laxative to increase bowel movements. Strands of saffron keep the body warm and honey provides micro-nutrients and antioxidants.”
How to make kahwa at home
When asked how common people can easily make Kahwa at home, Chef Yaseen replies that a Samovar or a pan is required to prepare the cuisine. “Inside a container 3 cups of water is to be boiled along with pieces of cinnamon, green cardamom, strands of saffron and ½ teaspoon honey. Let the water simmer for 3-4 minutes till the gold-hued colour develops and ultimately the kahwa gets ready."
Yaseen tells Moneycontrol that there are a number of brands selling readymade kahwa or packaged kahwa both online as well in departmental stores but that is not the actual kahwa recipe.
"In order to understand and prepare kahwa as a recipe, you need to know how to make it, what are the basic ingredients required to make a recipe and what kind of flavours can be added to make it more flavoured,” Yaseen explains.
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