Celebrated fashion designer Tarun Tahiliani's ikat-inspired uniforms for the India contingent at the 2024 Paris Olympics have sparked significant controversy. Hours after Team India, dressed in the colours of the national flag, made their entrance on the River Seine during the opening ceremony, social media users criticised the uniforms as substandard.
Dr Nandita Iyer, an X user, remarked, "Hello Tarun Tahiliani! I have seen better sarees sold in Mumbai streets for Rs.200 than these ceremonial uniforms you’ve ‘designed’." She described the uniforms as a mix of digital prints, cheap polyester fabric, and the tricolour arranged without any imagination.
Actor Tara Deshpande expressed similar sentiments, stating, "They look absolutely awful. We have the greatest textile tradition in India. Who passed this design? Who budgeted for this?" Other users highlighted India's rich legacy in textiles and handloom, questioning why the team was presented in such a poor manner on a global platform.
The uniforms consisted of white kurta pajamas for male athletes, paired with jackets featuring the saffron and green of the Indian tricolour. Female athletes wore sarees. The revelation that Tarun Tahiliani, a renowned designer, was behind the uniforms surprised and angered many.
"This is the best that Tarun Tahiliani could come up with? We are so used to our athletes looking so smart, normally. This feels like he phoned in the design," commented X user Ajay Kamath. Others wondered why printed uniforms were chosen over genuine ikat weaves.
Malayalam writer NS Madhavan commented, "At the world’s fashion capital, an Indian athlete looked like this - dull and ordinary. Tarun Tahiliani’s mix of plastic-sheet-like saree, printed ikat and unimaginative use of tricolour shut the window to the splendid world of Indian textiles."
Meanwhile, Tahiliani explained to The Hindu the rationale behind the choice of ikat print over weave. He noted that the ikat print was emblematic of a weaving tradition practiced nationwide. However, due to tight timelines, his Tasva team had to use digital prints. He also mentioned the deliberate choice of viscose over cotton, citing the latter's tendency to crush badly.
"We used viscose because it is a wood pulp fibre and lets you breathe. It is cooler than silk," he said, adding that breathability was crucial as athletes would be on a barge in the heat for up to five hours.
The Indian contingent, comprising 78 athletes and officials, made their grand entrance at the Parade of Nations on the River Seine during the opening ceremony of the Paris Olympics 2024. Star shuttler PV Sindhu and table tennis champion Sharath Kamal served as flag bearers.
Designer Tarun Tahiliani created the outfits to highlight Indian heritage on a global stage. Male athletes wore a white kurta and Bundi jacket adorned with orange and green naksi work, celebrating the Indian tricolour. The jackets featured pockets with 'India' inscriptions and the Olympic logo. Female athletes donned ikat-inspired sarees in the tricolours of white, orange, and green, paired with sneakers for a blend of traditional aesthetics and modern functionality.
In an interview with GQ India, Tahiliani explained his design approach. "My research revealed a trend where countries were integrating their national flags into their Olympic uniforms. Inspired by this, I crafted a design that prominently features the tricolour hues of saffron, white, and green, reflecting India's national colours," he said. He further noted that after feedback from the Olympic committee, he opted for sarees for women athletes, as they "can flatter any body type."
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