The food we eat: Indian power foods from sattu to millets

Litti roasted over hot coals on a chill morning in January is a treat not to be missed. It is like a wheat bun filled with a sattu, onion and jeera stuffing and traditionally eaten with a favourful tomato-rich baigan bartha cooked in mustard oil. We finished off with adrak ki chai and re-joined the commotion on the road. The hearty breakfast for two cost Rs 60.

The car sped forward and my thoughts lingered in reverse gear, dwelling on the years I spent as a surgeon in a busy mission hospital in Mokama, a hundred kilometers from Patna. In the post-operative phase after any abdominal surgery when a patient asked, “Can I eat sattu?” you knew he was on his way to recovery.

In Bihar sattu (roasted and powdered channa) is considered essential to wellbeing. It is vital for all Biharis; for those who have lived and worked there too it is a thumbs-up favorite. I used to drink sattu instead of the mid-morning tea during my years there. It is high in protein, easily digested and has a cooling effect in summer months. Patient-attenders always bring dry sattu for their use. Mixed with water and some salt, and eaten with green chillis and raw onion, it is also a convenience-food that can be carried on long journeys.

Every part of our country has traditional ‘power foods’ that are simple, healthy and practical. Maize, bajra, jowar, dozens of varieties of millets and many more of rice. However, our palates have got used to the monotonous taste of white rice and chappatis made from polished wheat. Their blandness demands highly spiced gravies thick with grease. Much worse are the maida-based snacks, breads, buns and sugary or deep-fried foods. Maida is refined wheat flour with all its nutrients removed, providing only the calories. It should not have a place in any kitchen cupboard or should be purchased only if necessary, for occasional use. In my childhood days it was popularly known as ‘Merkin Podi’ meaning ‘American Powder.’

Healthy eating is now increasingly common among upper class but upper class is only a small fraction in a country of 140 crore people. Most Indians cannot afford the luxury of eating the right foods. They are the daily-wage-earning labour in factories, construction, agriculture, domestic and hotel work; vendors, autorickshaw and bus drivers; the safai karmacharis, well- diggers, potters, plumbers, cowherds; their old and their young. Their main concerns regarding food are the cost of food, appeasement of hunger, cooking time and expense, and taste.

Until the early 1990s, an average family was satisfied with grains, pulses and locally grown vegetables, with meat, eggs, milk and fruit used sparingly. In my career I have seen how those who ate the most basic but natural food rarely suffered from heart disease, diabetes, obesity or high blood pressure. These diseases affected those who could eat processed foods with their high content of sugar, salt, fat and chemical preservatives –  namely the privileged classes.

With globalization, the floodgates of consumerism were opened and cheap, heavily processed food became affordable. It satisfied on all counts – Good to taste, economical, satiating and without the hassles or the expense of cooking. Result: A staggering number of our citizens belonging to all social strata began to suffer from the above ailments, plus others like recurring stomach disorders, reduced fertility, dental caries, anaemia and in children the attention deficit hyperactivity disorder or ADHD.

It is disturbing to acknowledge that our country is in the grip of a huge nutritional dilemma. India’s future will be shaped as much by the health of our people as by education, job availability and a more just distribution of wealth.

Every problem comes with a remedy. Here are some which will go a long way in ensuring good health for all our citizens.

As it is with most problems, one must go to the basics.

Many of the ‘power foods’ like bajra, jowar, maize and several varieties of millets (the pearl, the finger and the foxtail millet, to name a few) are easier to cultivate than rice or wheat. They need little water. It is possible to harvest two crops a year and in the intervening months, vegetables can be grown in the fields, thus promoting crop rotation. We should be replacing rice and wheat cultivation with these grains in a nationwide project. Rice and wheat can be grown in judiciously chosen water catchment areas. Thus, we can conserve millions of tonnes of water every year and bring remarkable improvement in the nutritional status countrywide. Children will have stronger bones, teeth and muscle and will no longer suffer from anaemia.