In 1968, Ringo Starr, Paul McCartney, George Harrison, and John Lennon - The Beatles - visited Maharishi Mahesh Yogi's ashram on the eastern bank of the Ganga river in Rishikesh. The facility, now also called The Beatles Ashram, inspired the English band to compose some of their best-selling music. It is today the venue for some cool art which is a reflection of the people, the place and how it made the artist feel. If you're in Rishikesh, and in the mood to see some interesting art, this could be a great place to start. It is advisable to visit the Ashram early, though, to beat crowds and the cacophony they sometimes bring.
Amidst the abandoned structures of the ashram, graffiti and motivational messages on the interior and exterior walls greet visitors. These create a sort of artistic collage and encourage visitors to explore the premises, searching for more murals. The most photographed of these have been done by Miles Toland, a US-based artist who is known for his surrealist paintings. The ashram’s mural series was featured in the Smithsonian Magazine and The New York Times blog. The mural titled 'Manjira' is an evocative depiction of the manjira, a traditional instrument comprising a pair of hand cymbals attached by a cord. A man’s wrinkled fingers playing the manjira are shown in the foreground while a circular geometric pattern forms the mural’s backdrop.
The mural themed 'Blessing' has a hand raised to bless the visitors of the ashram. The underlying message of these murals is that meditation not just strengthens spiritual connection but also leads to detachment from the ego, leading to higher consciousness.
Rishikesh street art
The best way to deep-dive into the street art of Rishikesh is to explore its vibrant lanes and alleys on foot. A lot of wall art can be found along the streets near Ram Jhula and Laxman Jhula. Many of these are an artistic depiction of the spiritual and religious side of the city.
A well-known piece of wall art depicts Lord Shiva sitting in a meditative state. His long hair is tied in a topknot, and rudraksha adorns his wrists and his neck. Sitting cross-legged, with his eyes closed, Shiva has his fingers in Gyan Mudra which is also the Mudra of Knowledge. This artwork depicts the city’s connection to yoga and represents why Rishikesh is known as the yoga capital of the world.
Another vibrant artwork which can be seen at the ghat near Laxman Jhula pays tribute to a mother’s love for her child. Created in shades of vermillion, the painting shows a mother protectively holding her child while a butterfly flies behind them. This lifelike art is visible even from the opposite side of the ghat while the mighty Ganga gushes by. Adrenaline-seekers testing their grit and determination against her rapids while whitewater-rafting pass by this expressive art at regular intervals. Both these creations can be seen from Om Freedom Café.
The street walls near Ram Jhula and Laxman Jhula are also painted with spiritual symbols, especially Om. Art advocating inner peace and meditation is splashed across Rishikesh which continues to be the global advocator of both.
Art residency in Rishikesh
The hall of the resort where I'm staying in Rishikesh is a riot of colour, creativity and energy. Sixty artists from India and abroad using various mediums ranging from watercolours, charcoal and acrylics are creating a cultural dialogue.
Genshu Takanashi, 12, is casually dressed in a red sweatshirt and light-grey track pant. The first indication that he's an artist is his self-painted canvas shoes. The Japanese artist based in Tokyo is painting a mandala which expresses the sun and the moon, and whose inspiration comes from folklore. Using a Japanese traditional brush and scratch art, the confident artist is attending his very first residency. He is accompanied by his mother Mao, also an artist.
Next to them, a Thai artist paints the face of a woman, with the eye being the focus. For her, the eye represents her inner self. Giovanna Caruso, 82, from Italy is doing an impromptu painting of all the artists in gathered in the hall.
Adriana Florea Baloiu from Bucharest in Romania is an abstract painter whose art is her freedom. Sitting in one of the restaurants of the resort, she relishes a traditional Garhwali meal of madua ki roti made from finger millet, gahat dal made from horse gram and jakhiya aloo which is a dry potato dish made using a local spice called jakhiya. As she finishes her dessert which is a kheer made from local rice, she smiles and mentions how the positive vibe of the property makes her feel free and empowered.
Mithu O from Mumbai takes a break from painting as she sits at the rooftop café and bar, soaking in the tranquility of her setting overlooking the Heval River which is a tributary of the Ganges. The 60 artists from India and abroad are visiting Rishikesh under Chitrashaala, an annual global art residency hosted by jüSTa Hotels & Resorts and fashion designer Deepika Govind.
Daria Babich is a Ukranian artist displaced by the war with Russia. She is still reeling from the scars of war. Three years ago, she fled her country with her nine-year-old daughter who has only virtually talked to her grandparents and uncle since then. Before the war, Babich used a lot of colour in her art. Now her monochrome art reflects surrealism. As she interacts with the other happy artists here, she mentions that maybe it is time to bring back colour into her art and life. Such is the transformative effect of art and the camaraderie it brings!
For a Kolkata-based artist, Chitrashaala is a platform to have her voice heard beyond her city. It also gives her an opportunity to interact with global artists from varying socio-cultural backgrounds.
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