If I have to pick three iconic images that define Australia, one of them would be the 12 Apostles, probably Victoria’s most ‘Instagrammed’ spot. It’s tough to tell whether these craggy limestone cliffs that make the Great Ocean Drive one of those ‘bucket-list’ travel trips or whether it’s the stunning drive that lives up to that cliché – ‘the drive is the destination’.
It’s tough to imagine that this 240km road was originally constructed by hand - 3,000 returned servicemen built it as a war memorial to fellow soldiers who lost their lives in World War I. Construction (started in 1919) was done using explosives, wheelbarrows and basic machinery. In a sense, this is one of the world’s largest war memorials.
Whether it’s the Antrim Coast in Ireland or California’s Highway One, you can always expect two elements in the best coastal drives in the world. One of them is a picturesque drive where it’s hard to focus on your driving duties as you are constantly distracted with stunning views. But it's not just the drive, it’s also the experiences that are waiting just off these famous coastal drives.
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It wasn’t the perfect day for a coastal drive – slightly overcast, cold and there was the infamous Melbourne wind chill. And yet I wouldn’t have traded the relatively empty roads for the sunshine of the Australian summer.
As I drove out of Melbourne and past Albert Park - Melbourne’s famous F1 venue - I set myself up for a multiple-pit strategy before hugging the curves on the Great Ocean road.
It all begins in Torquay, about 90 minutes from the Melbourne CBD, and it only ends once you’ve explored all the thrills and sights that keep taking you into charming coastal towns and panoramic view points.
Australia’s surfing capital
Queenslanders might disagree (the state has a long list of iconic surfing spots) but Bells Beach near Torquay is a spiritual hub of sorts for Australia’s large surfing community.
Torquay is home to the Rip Curl Pro Surf and Music Festival – the world’s longest running surfing competition. This is where the stories of iconic Australian surfing brands like Quiksilver and Rip Curl began.
It’s why I’d also recommend keeping an extra hour at Torquay town to check out factory stores of popular surf brands. I wasn’t surprised to find a small group of surfers riding the waves even on a cold day in June; almost nothing can keep surfing enthusiasts in this country away from the waves.
The customary white-washed lighthouse
It’s almost a given in every iconic coastal drive – a historic lighthouse with a view. The Split Point lighthouse (originally called Eagles Nest Point) was constructed in 1891, and still maintains its white-washed charm aside from its original staircase and timber fittings. The dark clouds made way for a double rainbow as I neared the town of Airey’s Inlet and headed straight to the top of this famous lighthouse for sweeping 360-degree panoramas.
Mediterranean vibe
If you’re looking to stop and explore one of the charming coastal towns on this stretch, I’d recommend either Anglesea or Lorne (that’s about 45 minutes from Torquay). It has enough to offer for a longer, one-night pit-stop. From sandy white beaches to barracuda fishing and a tropical waterfall. I didn’t make it to Erskine Falls but made the customary photo stop at Teddys Lookout, a viewing platform that gives you 360-degree views of the Great Ocean road and the ocean.
I didn’t do an overnight stop at Lorne but I’d still recommend you make sure you plan a relaxed lunch in town (fresh catch of the day is always in the mix) and then wander around the main shopping strip dotted with boutique gift stores, cellars and galleries.
Koalas in the wilderness
Even if you’re not someone who fancies detours on a scenic drive, I’d recommend heading down Cape Otway lighthouse road and ‘stopping for wildlife’. You could spot koalas or kangaroos in the wild. Also look out for the famous cool road sign where creative graffiti artists have morphed kangaroos and emus into pre-historic animals. Also watch a couple of dollars of birdfeed go a long way at Kennet River where I had exotic birds including kookaburras and rosellas eat (birdfeed) out of my hand and also land on my head.
Reward at the end of the road
Time yourself to arrive at the final destination around 3-4 pm. One of Australia’s most visited sites was created by constant erosion of the limestone cliffs of the mainland beginning 10–20 million years ago. These caves eventually became arches and when they collapsed, rock stacks up to 45 metres high were left isolated from the shore.
Nothing prepares you for the sheer scale and magnificence of these craggy limestone cliffs, especially on a day when the waves are rough and the wind almost knocks your mobile shooter out of your hand. There are multiple viewing decks. You could also sign up for a short chopper ride for birds-eye views.
It doesn’t stop with the 12 Apostles, drive a little further into the Port Campbell National Park and end your evening at the Loch and Gorge, another spectacular site along the ocean. Catch a memorable sunset before you call it a day after an action-packed day on one of the world’s most rewarding coastal drives.
Trip planner:
- Try and leave Melbourne by 7 am if you plan to reach the Twelve Apostles before sunset.
- If you reach Twelve Apostles early, stop for lunch at Forage along the Port Campbell beach front on the Great Ocean Road (10 minutes from the Twelve Apostles). The menu is built with fresh ingredients that have been produced and foraged along the Great Ocean Road and surrounding areas.
- You could plan a night spot at Warrnambool (I stayed at the Lady Bay Resort) and head to Logan beach after sunrise for whale spotting before you drive back to Melbourne
- Summer is a popular time to drive down the Great Ocean Road, but I’d suggest mid-May to end June if you want to avoid the crowds.
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