HomeNewsTrendsLifestyleSaraswat cuisine for Ganesh Chaturthi: Vegetable stew with 21 ingredients and a dessert wrapped in turmeric leaves
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Saraswat cuisine for Ganesh Chaturthi: Vegetable stew with 21 ingredients and a dessert wrapped in turmeric leaves

Gaud Saraswat Brahmin fare for Ganeshotsav is a medley of sweet and sour flavours. At its heart lie Patoleo, a layered dessert, and vegetarian stews and bhajis.

September 26, 2023 / 19:48 IST
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Ganesh Chaturthi celebrations in Goa are marked by a festive spread fit for the divine
Ganesh Chaturthi celebrations in Goa are marked by a festive spread fit for the divine.

Patoleo, aptly described as a dish worthy of the divine, holds a sacred place during the first two days of Ganesh Chaturthi in the Gaud Saraswat Brahmin (GSB) community. The festivities commence with an offering to Goddess Parvati, who is believed to be pregnant, followed by a tribute to Lord Ganesh.

Gaud Saraswat cuisine is distinguished by its use of seasonal ingredients, and includes seafood and chicken dishes. Souring agents such as green mangoes in summer, ambade (hog plums) in monsoon and bimbli (Tree Sorrel) give the food a unique tang. The cuisine also showcases a variety of green leafy and root vegetables native to Goa, some growing wild around its lush forests, such as wild Amaranthus (kudduki bhaji) and Taro leaves (Arbi or Colocasia leaves).

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The GSB community’s Ganesh Chaturthi food is superlative. Patoleo, the star of this celebration, is a labour of love. Turmeric leaves, abundant during monsoon, are lined with rice batter and filled with jaggery, ghee, coconut mix and, in some variations, cashews, before being steamed. This meticulous process ensures a fudgy sweet with a nuanced flavour profile.

“You only eat Patoleo during monsoons, and Goans wait for rains with as much restlessness as they wait for mangoes,” says Shubhra Shankhwalker, a home chef who founded Aai’s to host curated GSB meals at her ancient home within a farm. She also runs a home delivery business.