Gone are the days when a good cup of coffee meant having to beat coffee powder and sugar with a drop of hot water and then pour boiling milk into the cup to get a frothy brew. ‘Fenti hui coffee’ was what many of us grew up on. And if you were the kind who drank coffee outside, it had to be an ‘expresso’ from a cumbersome-looking machine with steam announcing its arrival, long before the coffee emerged. Being able to sip this at a cinema hall during the interval, was the ultimate extravagance. At best, some of us, got together at Indian Coffee House on College Street, for an affordable cup of coffee and ‘adda’ (chatting session).
Ashish D'abreo- Q grader, coffee roaster and co-founder- Maverick & Farmer Coffee, says, “From simply being a 'stimulant' or a beverage to wake up to, coffee has today become a beverage that's more sensorial, experiential and involving.”
Cafe culture
With Mocha opening in Mumbai in 2002, Riyaaz Amlani of Impresario, introduced the café culture to India. Then came Café Coffee Day, Barista, Starbucks, Coffee by di Bella, Blue Tokai and the works, bringing with them, a lot of offerings, not just a regular hot coffee or a cold coffee, but Americano, Café Latte, Cappuccino, and even the Cortado. One clear visible trend today, is the rise of local Indian roasters and artisanal coffees.
Matt Chitharanjan, co-Founder and CEO, Blue Tokai Coffee Roasters, says, “When we started in 2013, this industry was largely dominated by commodity coffee brands and specialty coffee in India was an unknown, unaddressed segment - so much, that we had to convince Indian coffee producers for months to sell a part of their produce to us. A decade later, the specialty coffee industry in India is thriving, from both the supply and demand end. Coffee consumption at cafes has increasingly become an important part of young people's social life.”
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Best coffees in Bengaluru, Mumbai, Delhi, Kolkata and Goa
When one is enjoying a South Indian snack or meal, a strong South Indian filter coffee or Kaapi, prepared with hot milk, sugar and a coffee decoction, is irresistible. Served in a steel tumbler, the aroma pervades the air, fills the nostrils and entices one immediately. While southern India is replete with places serving this variety, Raj Hotel, a small South Indian eatery on Manoharpukur Road in South Kolkata, is what my vote will go to. The dark decoction is placed in a glass and then the milk is skillfully poured on top in layers, topped with froth, like a twirling dance and is rightfully called, Dancing Coffee. The Madras Coffee House in Chennai is the other place where one can safely order a filter coffee and expect to get the real bold flavours. If you are feeling adventurous, there's a filter cold coffee option available at south Delhi's Padmanabham; it is strong, thick and a bit of an acquired taste.
Cappuccino may seem like the most common type of coffee today, served in cafes and restaurants, but not many get it right. Perch Wine & Coffee Bar in Khar Mumbai is second to none when it comes to coffees. They do a good Cappuccino; alternatively, their House blend and single origin coffees are a treat too. The ambience and interiors add to the experience and one can end up here for hours sipping coffees and working. Perch have a Delhi outlet as well, in Khan Market - if you feel like something sweet, try their Vietnamese coffee.
While the Cafe Latte and even Flat white at Coffee by di Bella Juhu are good reasons to visit this café, the real attraction is the Sea salt Iced Americano. For those with a sweet tooth there is a Nutella Latte too. At Affogato, Khar, try the sparkling Coffee Tonic.
The perfect Cortado with equal parts of steamed milk and espresso, is what Something’s Brewing, Bengaluru, excels at. While you’re there, try their Mexican Spiced Latte. The hint of cinnamon and chocolate powder, elevates this latte and one can enjoy it hot or iced.
Cafes and coffee places abound in Delhi and NCR. At Third Wave Coffee in Delhi, the Dry Hazelnut Cappuccino is good value-for-money. Even the basic Americano and Latte are worth sipping.
For iced coffees, you can't go wrong with any of the choices at Cafe Culture in Greater Kailash I (they use Blue Tokai beans). Old-timers also like Fig and Maple's selection of hot and cold beverages; finding a table at both places can be a bit of a hassle over the weekends, though.
When in Pune, for the best pour-over, head to Blue Tokai Coffee Roasters at Koregaon Park. The Mocha with several flavour variations is another reason to be here. Known for sourcing their beans from several estates across India, they have changed the way Indians drink coffee.
Looking for a good coffee in Goa, the land of feni, may seem a bit incongruous, but there are coffee lovers aplenty and sometimes a place to hang out or even work, proves to be the trigger. Nanbai in Panjim caters to both these needs. The perfect place to work or chill with friends, the Cappuccino here is robust. It is the quality of beans that make the difference. If a specialty coffee is what you’re after, head to Maverick & Farmer Coffee, Anjuna and sip But Naturally - the naturally processed heavy-bodied, Arabica, with low acidity, served as a pour-over.
A tea stall at Café Aguada, on Sinquerim Beach, Goa, known for their tandoori tea, does an equally inviting coffee, as he adds Old Monk rum to it, attracting large crowds in the evening and even late night.
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