Sonal Holland knows her chops. She is the first and only Indian so far to have been conferred the Master of Wine title, an uncommon, hard-won distinction. There are less than 450 Masters of Wine in the world. Holland is also the driving force behind the India Wine Awards, the fifth edition of which was held recently. A 20-member jury rated about 460 wines – both domestic and international quaffs sold in the country – and each wine was judged on a 100-point scoresheet in a blind tasting format; 219 of them picked up awards. Indian wines in the Best of Show list included York Sparkling Rose Brut, 2020, Source Sauvignon Blanc Reserve, 2023, and among others, the Fratelli Wines Sette, 2022.
Most wine lovers are known to turn their nose up at Indian wine, but Holland says that wines made in India have improved on their own benchmark in the last 15-odd years. “I’m not speaking here of the Indian wine industry as a unified whole. There are some very committed players and then there are others who have no business making wines. Sula accounts for about 60 percent market share and Fratelli for about 25 percent. I often joke that the Indian wine industry is a monopoly, or a duopoly at best,” says Holland.
About 95 percent of wines produced in India are consumed locally, says Holland, and she has a counter to folks who say that they lack structure or depth. “You might not pick up a bottle of Indian wine, because you have evolved as a drinker. But at the same time, there are people who are happy with them. If you taste an inexpensive Indian wine and an inexpensive European wine blind, like we did at the awards, it is hard to tell the difference. The lines are blurred.”
We asked Holland to recommend wines available in India for significant moments in our life as well as for New Year’s Eve. Here are her recommendations
Best wine to gift a host at a NYE party
A bottle of Taittinger Brut Champagne (Rs 8,500) is a classic choice to ring in the new year, but if your host is known to prefer reds over white, I’d suggest a bottle of Fratelli Sette (Rs 2,000), which is easily India’s most premium wine offering. On the other hand, if you are thinking of organising a cosy get-together at home, I’d go for fuss-free wines that are crowd-pleasers and appeal to a wide range of palates as well as the pocket. Check out the Villa Sandi IL Fresco Prosecco (Rs 2,950) – it’s fresh, lively and easy-going. Other reccos would be the vivacious Haart to Heart Mosel Riesling in white or the Allan Scott Pinot Noir (Rs 5,450) from New Zealand.
What to drink for Valentine’s Day
The pink or salmon hues of a rose wine are not only visually appealing, but are often associated with romance and love. What’s great is that rosé wines are also versatile and complement a range of cuisines. So whether you are taking your partner out for a seafood dinner or an Indian meal, a crisp and elegant bottle of the Chateau La Mascarone Cotes du Provence Rosé (Rs 5,750) will fit the bill. If you want to go for an Indian bubbly, I’d recommend the Sparkling York Rose (Rs 1,400).
Your anniversary (or your parents’ anniversary)
Choose a special red wine that complements a romantic dinner at home or at a restaurant. The Metala Vineyards William Formby Cabernet Sauvignon or the Penfolds 389 Cabernet Shiraz from Australia are both excellent choices, as they show ripe, opulent fruit flavours, rich texture on the palate, and a complex, long finish.
A 3k wine that drinks like a 12k wine
The Buena Vista Legendary Badge Petit Syrah (Rs 3,605) from California, with its ripe dark fruit flavours, soft rounded tannins, layers of chocolate and mocha on the palate and an elegant silky finish, punches way above its price point.
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