Manish Malhotra has been an influential figure in the Indian fashion scene since the early 1990s. In his three decade-long career as a fashion designer he has worked in hundreds of films and created looks for stars in popular movies like Gumrah (1993), Kuch Kuch Hota Hai (1998), Dilwale Dulhania Le Jayenge (1995), Jab We Met (2007), Yeh Jawaani Hai Diwani (2013) and many others. Known for his rather larger-than-life elegant stylising, and an enviable celebrity patronage, Malhotra is as famous as the stars he dresses up in the Hindi film industry. In an exclusive interview with Moneycontrol, the fashion designer talks about his vision for India in 2047, his work and more. Edited excerpts:
Independence Day — what do you feel about this day?
The 15th of August is one of the most important days in our country. Celebrating 76 years of India’s independence is going to be a day of great pride and joy for all of us. India has been my home, my life, and my inspiration. In my three-decade-long career, my creations have mirrored the many facets of India’s cultural and historical legacy which I personally take immense pride in. My aim has always been to put Indian Fashion on the world map, and in doing so, display the inspiring variety of cultural and historical elements we’ve nourished in our beautiful country.
Tell us about your vision for India in 2047.
The world these days is so fast, so unpredictable, I believe in moving with the times.
By 2047, a hundred years of Indian independence, what will be the most significant thing you want to see in the field of fashion design?
No one can predict fashion, it’s ever-changing, it’s ever evolving. Fashion is and always will be one of the most cyclical industries, however, I do hope we continue reviving and re-inventing India’s age-old crafts. When we have such a beautiful and rich culture that we’ve thrived in, it is our responsibility to continue nourishing it.
What do you have to say about Artificial Intelligence (AI) and fashion design? How relevant will designers be in the future?
I’m going to be honest, I’m still very new to AI. In my career spanning 30 years, a lot has changed, and I’ve adapted myself to newer trends and cycles, but never could I imagine a technology such as AI. We’ve always been used to doing everything by hand, whether it’s the sketches, the draping, the embroidery, however, AI has changed the face of designing, manufacturing and even selling for that matter. It’s a funny story, when we were ideating for our Bridal Couture Show 2023, my team mentioned dressing an AI influencer and showed me the Instagram profile, and for all that time I believed that the person was real. When they did tell me it was an AI character, I couldn’t believe it. That’s when I was really intrigued and started understanding more of it.
Tell us about your latest bridal collection.
Our most recent bridal collection was showcased in our Bridal Couture Show 2023-24 at the Jio World Convention Centre celebrating 18 years of my brand. A couture show that displayed an army of 80 models and 105 bridal looks.
How do you continue to bring in something new to bridal couture every season? Do you feel that bridal outfits, in the last decade, have seen major changes?
Bridal Couture is very subjective, and in today’s generations, very personal. We’ve gradually been moving away from societal norms and age-old traditions, for example wearing a signature bridal red. I’ve always been passionate about taking risks and experimentation; My collections have always showcased brides in less-typical colours, breaking out of stereotypes and moving towards something more individualistic. The brides of today are confident women, wanting to make bolder choices that caters to their persona. The Bridal Couture 2023 collection showcased a new and refreshing bridal palette, from Ivory to oyster, grey, brown, navy, rose pinks and reds. With an influx of fresher silhouettes like peplums, slim skirts, draped sarees, statement-making blouses.
How much will it change in the next two decades considering the world is changing at an incredible speed and GenZ has a completely different outlook?
The world is indeed changing at an incredible speed, which is why no one can really tell what is there in store for us. What I do know is that people are also changing at an incredible speed, mentalities are changing, opinions are changing. Men and women have become more outspoken of their personal choices and are embracing their individualities a lot more. This is one of the best things as I’ve always been an avid supporter of self-confidence and experimentation.
You have been in this industry for so many decades — what has been your biggest takeaway?
I’ve always maintained that my greatest understanding of this industry is to always give more than people expect.
You gave a completely new look to Bollywood with your styling. What do you have to say about how fashion in the film industry will change in the next two decades?
As I mentioned earlier, when people change, mentalities change, so do scripts and the kind of movies people want to watch. With the rapid rate of globalisation, we’re prone to learning more about other cultures, other histories, and as we do that, we all evolve. Costume styling has always been about understanding the essence of each character.
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