London has nearly 15,000 restaurants, that’s 621 people per restaurant. According to the Office of National Statistics, there were 123,395 restaurants in the UK in 2019, which includes licensed and unlicensed restaurants, takeaways, mobile food stands, pubs, bars and bakeries - that's roughly one food outlet for every 454 UK adults.
Let’s look at some of the oldest restaurants in London:
1. Wiltons’ (1742): Often called the oldest restaurant in London, Wiltons’ was founded in 1742 by George Wilton, a respected oyster salesman. Housed inside the 18th-century Haymarket, it began as a shellfish stall but soon gained popularity and even counted the British royal family among its loyal customers.
Story is that during the World War II bombing of the city, the then owner Bessie Leal was so miffed that she hung her apron and proclaimed her intention to sell the restaurant. She did not sell. Wilton’s has changed hands and locations several times but oysters still remain on the menu.
Where: 55 Jermyn Street, St. James's
2. Simpson's Tavern (1757): In its 265-year history, Simpson's Tavern, London's oldest chophouse, has survived fires, wars, and epidemics. Founded by Thomas Simpson, the Tavern ran into difficult times during the pandemic but was recently declared an Asset of Community Value by the City of London Corporation. So far, over £111,000 has been raised through crowdfunding to try and save the pub and keep the heritage alive.
Where: Ball Court; 381/2 Cornhill
3. Rules (1798): The oldest restaurant in London on its original site, Rules was founded by Thomas Rule as an oyster bar and soon became known for its porter, a type of dark beer, pies and oysters. Regular customers have included British literary greats, such as authors Graham Greene, H.G. Wells and Charles Dickens, as well as celebrities such as Charlie Chaplin, Clark Gable and King Edward VII.
Where: 35 Maiden Lane
4. Simpson's-in-the-Strand (1828): Described by author P. G. Wodehouse as ‘a restful temple of food’, Simpson’s was a coffeehouse, chess club, and smoking room for 20 years before becoming known for its classic British food. It pioneered the use of carving trolleys on which joints of British beef, lamb and pork were silently wheeled and served tableside so as the chess players did not get disturbed. Charles Dickens, George Bernard Shaw, Sir Arthur Conan Doyle were regulars here.
Where: 100 Strand
5. F Cooke (1862): Robert Cooke was born in 1841 in East London and grew up in a family of pipe makers. Robert went on to be one of London’s most successful entrepreneurs and when he was 21, he opened his first outlet on Sclatter Street, Brick Lane. This was the first time he started trading under the Cooke brand and F Cooke was born. It was at this point he made a name for himself by selling stewed eels with mashed potato and liquor. In 1890, Robert opened up a second shop at 40 Watney Street, E1 and by 1892 Robert ventured south of the river to Bermondsey where he opened up at 87 Bermondsey New Road, which is now known as Tower Bridge Road, SE1.
To this day, the unique London dining institution continues to use the original recipes. Only Scotch beef goes into their pies which is combined with mashed potato and parsley sauce.
Where: 150 Hoxton St
6. Kettner's (1867): One of London’s first destinations for French cuisine and onetime hangout of Oscar Wilde, Winston Churchill, and Agatha Christie, Kettner's was opened by Auguste Kettner, a chef to Napoleon III at a time when French food was becoming fashionable in the capital. Story is that King Edward VII courted his mistress, Lillie Langtry, with access to a secret passage between Kettner’s and the Palace Theatre, where she performed as an actress.
Where: 29 Romilly St
7. Criterion (1874): Built by architect Thomas Verity in Neo-Byzantine style, Criterion opened in 1873 and is currently listed as a Grade II historic building. It was originally built for caterers Spiers and Pond. If you are a Sherlock Holmes fan, remember the first meeting between Holmes and Watson? Well, author Arthur Conan Doyle set the fictional meeting in the Criterion.
Where: 224 Piccadilly
8. Sweetings (1889): Sweetings started as John S. Sweetings, Fish and Oyster Merchant, and was advertised as ‘very superior oyster room’. Sweetings served a mix of Dover soles and salmon, lobsters and oysters and even today, the food - almost entirely fish - is also much as it was a century ago (lunch only).
Where: 39 Queen Victoria St
9. Veeraswamy (1926): Established in 1926 by an Indian Mughal princess and Edward Palmer, an Anglo-Indian retired British army officer and the grandson of an English general, Veeraswamy is the oldest surviving Indian restaurant in London. Soon after opening, it became a fashionable rendezvous spot for the rich and famous, who were drawn not only to its remarkable cuisine but also to its Raj-inspired opulent interiors.
The Michelin Guide 2016 awarded Veeraswamy a Michelin Star with the words: "It may have opened in 1926 but this celebrated Indian restaurant just keeps getting better and better! The classic dishes from across the country are prepared with considerable care and it's run with great charm and enormous pride.”
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