Restaurant review: A slice of Mediterranean and Middle East at Mumbai’s NOMI in Andheri

Mumbai’s Middle Eastern and Mediterranean cuisine restaurant NOMI in Andheri.

Chef Rakesh Talwar’s three decades of culinary odyssey and intercultural brush with world-wide epicures has created a tantalising fusion of flavours at the newly opened NOMI. Founded by prominent restaurateurs Karan Shah and Kaushal Shah, an enterprising and driven brother duo, owning a series of popular eateries across Mumbai like Vice, South Bombay Bar, Copa, Zerua and The Terrace in Juhu, who ensures every dish is an ode to the healthy and vibrant Mediterranean cuisine to offer a soothing sensory experience to their discerning clientele.

NOMI, Andheri, Mumbai.

As we stepped into the 7th level of Ambica Acropolis in Andheri West, we felt carted to a realm of enormous caverns with a sea-side, chilled out vibe. Both the interior and exterior dining areas with bar beckoned us for a good epicurean time ahead, in a jaunty and cheery ambience. The bright snowy walls accentuated with caramel features, complemented by dim-lit golden lights lend an earthy, archaic appeal even as it vies with contemporary aesthetics. Seating is informal and cosy as the Instagram-worthy rooftop restaurant designed by ingenious Darshan Gala sports raw elements to convert a mundane space into an absorbing, intimate zone to evoke a laid-back after-hours feel.

Maintaining a good health is on almost everyone’s checklist. With more people becoming aware of the importance of mindful eating, even while eating out, the choice of cuisine takes precedence over other factors. What could be more satisfying and sustaining than a healthy Mediterranean meal of greens, herbs and seafood. Culled from European and Middle-Eastern, Mediterranean regions, the menu with an extensive list of food and cocktails promises to tempt even the disinterested and listless of diners.

Mediterranean fare at NOMI, Mumbai.

Italian fare at NOMI, Mumbai

A balmy start it was on a rainy evening, as we supped on Edamame & Truffle soup with edamame beans. For a taste of the Levantine, look no further than Manakish where the flavoursome thyme seduces your olfactory nerves. The sweet notes of caramelised onions in NOMI signature dish comes with artichokes, sundried tomatoes, Kalamata olives and goat cheese in a spicy tomato sauce.

On the Italian front, Rigatoni Sisciliana teased the palate with a bit of chillies and preserved lemons in robust rigatoni pasta with ricotta cheese and zucchini. Served with an aromatic herb pilaf, The Hungarian Goulash came across as a hearty and comforting stew of tender chicken and fresh, vibrant veggies in paprika-spiced flavours. Samak Harra happens to be an unmissable traditional Lebanese delicacy for seafood lovers as spiced fish baked in tomato sauce is presented with pickled vegetables and couscous for a tongue-tingling mouthfeel. Egyptian Koshari with cottage cheese and rice topped with chickpeas and lentil stew was a tad overcooked.

Drinks at NOMI, Mumbai.

The high-spirited bar menu of NOMI features luscious cocktails, bold Medit flavours with remarkable twists. It has been meticulously curated by mixologist Atul Mundaye as was evident in some of the unique blends we tasted. Our preference of sparkling wine had us go for the signature Sundowner Sip cocktail. It dazed us with an alluring and ecstatic flaxen hue, fusing together rose-suffused gin, brisk citrus notes, a hint of honey gold sparkle, and crowned with a lush prosecco lecithin foam. Next we tried Paloma Spritz — a refreshing combo of tequila with bitter aperitif Aperol, grapefruit juice and lime juice springing a fizzy tweak. For those who like a mix of sweet and sour flavours in their cocktail, Habibi Sour Him Bean can tempt with Bourbon, an enjoyable blend of hibiscus and grape cordial.

European, Middle Eastern and Mediterranean spread at NOMI, Mumbai.

If there’s Middle-Eastern, can the irresistible dessert Turkish Baklava be far behind. We also tried the rich Umm Ali — the traditional Egyptian pudding with filo pastry, milk and dried fruits. And we almost attained nirvana.