When Amitabh Bachchan, after appearing on Kaun Banega Crorepati (KBC), dialled Raghavendra Rathore’s number to express that people found his new look young and refreshing, Rathore quipped, the Bandhgala “makes a man look trimmer and younger because it cuts close to the body…almost like a capsule.” The dapper and debonair couturier Raghavendra Rathore, 56, born into royalty, went on to rescue and revitalise a relic of the past and give it a modern avatar. The bandhgala “is what our ancestors wore before Independence,” says the great-grandson of the erstwhile maharaja of Jodhpur, Sardar Singh, who ruled from 1895 to 1911. In 1994, Rathore’s cousin Gaj Singh, the Maharaja of Jodhpur, was celebrating 50 years of the Umaid Bhawan palace and asked him to put up a fashion show. Rathore was working with Dominican fashion designer Oscar de la Renta at the time. In two months, with the fashion community support here in India, Rathore put up a successful show at Mehrangarh Fort. And there was no looking back since.
It wasn’t fashion but robotics and Greek mythology that Rathore studied at Hampshire College, the US. He created electrical circuits with sensors that mirrored human behaviour. In 2021, he and his colleagues created one of India’s first apps, iCarbon (for iPhone), a smart carbon footprint calculator with links to reduce an individual’s carbon footprint by recommending tree planting wherever required. Rathore’s passion is painting though, and his first ever sale commercial project was an artwork, an art-electronic installation, Be Still My Beating Heart, outside New York, in the early 1990s, alongside Calvin Klein and renowned artist Christo, to raise funds for AMFAR (The Foundation for AIDS Research). No celebrity wedding/event today is complete without a Raghavendra Rathore Jodhpur (RRJ) bandhgala, waistcoat, jackets, Achkan or Jodhpurs (or breeches). Jyotiraditya Scindia, Saif Ali Khan, Yuvraj Singh, Rahul Gandhi, Naveen Jindal, Shah Rukh Khan, Amitabh Bachchan, Anil Kapoor, Diljit Dosanjh, among others, RRJ’s clientele is a motley crew.
Thirty year since his fashion brand was born, and with one eye always set on technological advances, Rathore is the first designer to take his personal art and convert it into Non-fungible Tokens (NFTs) via exclusive block-chain technology. He also set up the Gurukul School of Design in Jaipur in 2018.
Excerpts from an exclusive email interview with Moneycontrol:
How much of a role did your grandaunt Rajmata Gayatri Devi play in kindling your interest in fashion?
Rajmata Gayatri Devi, my grand aunt from Jaipur, was married to my grandmother’s brother. This unique family connection blessed me with two lifelines and two grandmothers, both of whom greatly influenced my life. The Rajmata possessed an exquisite sense of style. During a chance lunch in New York with Jacqueline [Kennedy] Onassis and Eleanor Lambert, I had the privilege of receiving invaluable advice for my burgeoning career in fashion. While the Rajmata’s interactions were often brief, they were consistently impactful over the years. She always seemed to know exactly what guidance to offer a young entrepreneur starting out in the 1990s.
Let’s go back in time, three decades ago, when you returned to India and started Raghavendra Rathore Jodhpur. Could you walk us through those initial days of doubts, trials and errors?
Upon returning to India from the US, I faced an extremely challenging landscape as the fashion industry was at a very nascent stage. However, I also recognised tremendous potential and the opportunity to capitalise on a first-mover advantage. Starting with just five to six tailors in a small extension of our Jodhpur house, I envisioned a brand that would become a strong representation of our culture.
Drawing inspiration from traditional styling, I learnt a great deal from industry friends and individuals from various walks of life. Their insights helped me navigate the uncertain terrain of 1990s India. While I appreciated the value of my small-town Jodhpur roots, I also acknowledged the limitations that came with the local mind-set. This realisation led me to relaunch the brand from the capital, a decision that propelled us forward with no looking back.
Raghavendra Rathore has become synonymous with Jodhpuri bandhgala suits and achkans. Coming from a royal lineage, did you create this label because of a need to create a fashion line for the modern royalty — whose most popular face in India today is Bollywood actor Saif Ali Khan? And besides Saif, which non-Bollywood celebrity is a Raghavendra Rathore regular?
Mr Saif Ali Khan, a man of exceptional style with a keen eye for curating his image, has a valued friendship with our brand that has been pivotal in amplifying our aesthetic. His appearance in the RRJ Bandhgala in Vidhu Vinod Chopra’s Eklavya: The Royal Guard (2007) marked a significant moment in the garment’s rise to popularity.
It is both humbling and an honour that our brand is recognised as synonymous with the Bandhgala, not only in our country but across borders. In modern India, the Bandhgala embodies both timeless charm and modern appeal, allowing us to reinterpret traditional Indian formal wear for today’s discerning clientele. Our brand customises this iconic piece for clients across various fields such as business, sports, hospitality, education, modern leadership, entertainment, and more.
The achkan, like the Anarkali and angrakha, and also pyjama dates back to the Mughals. Could you talk about how Mughal fashion contributed to the making of Indian/Hindustani heritage?
India’s men’s fashion evolved significantly, shaped by global influences and the Mughal era. The Mughals introduced flowing, unstructured garments suited to the climate, reflecting their appreciation for leisure and aesthetics, evident in their lush gardens and intricate corridors. These spaces were not just architectural marvels but also platforms for showcasing elegant leisure wear, blending function with style — the essence of a lifestyle brand.
The achkan emerged as a symbol of courtly dress, later refined by British tailoring and enhanced by sewing machines. This evolution of Indian men’s clothing from the humble dhoti and kurta to the angarkha, achkan, and finally to the iconic Bandhgala, highlights the fusion of cultural influences, technological advancements, and changing norms, telling a story of India’s rich heritage and timeless elegance that continues to influence global fashion.
The classic elegance of Jodhpuri bandhgala or achkan will never age but do you see Gen-Z coming to you or wearing a Raghavendra Rathore?
The Bandhgala, an iconic symbol of Indian formal wear, has continuously evolved. This progression is not merely superficial; it represents a dynamic interplay between tradition and modernity, craftsmanship and innovation, and most importantly the ability to transcend generations.
The younger generation, with their keen desire for self-expression, has been a driving force behind some of the most exciting innovations in Bandhgala design. The brand has created many avatars of this classic garment, season after season, with unexpected colours and fusion elements such as funky customised prints and unique embroidered motifs.
Also, when the brand is associated with global icons such as Diljit Dosanjh, who recently wore some RRJ bespoke designs for his Dil-illuminati tour, there is a sudden connect with Gen Z and the younger audience. This is quite evident in the requests that followed for customisation and styling of classic outfits after his appearances.
I was just going to ask you about designing Diljit Dosanjh’s traditional-contemporary look at his debut in The Tonight Show Starring Jimmy Fallon and Dil-luminati North America tour. Why did Diljit sign on Raghavendra Rathore?
Diljit Dosanjh is an extraordinary individual, embodying humility at his core. Our connection was instantaneous from our very first interaction. His approach resonates deeply with our brand ethos, blending tradition and culture.
The synergy between Diljit’s artistic vision and RRJ’s craftsmanship has led to creations that not only showcase his personal style but also pay homage to the rich cultural tapestry of India. Working with artists like Diljit allows us to explore new dimensions in fashion, bridging the gap between classic aesthetics and contemporary trends. It’s through such partnerships that we continue to evolve, pushing the boundaries of design while staying true to our heritage-inspired roots.
Yours is a very structured style/fashion with its classic, structured jackets. Has your brand’s style, and your personal style, evolved over the decades?
Classic styles will always remain timeless, becoming even more significant as our lifestyles increasingly prioritise health and fitness. Fashion trends will come and go.
The appeal of youthful looks and well-fitted garments persists, with a harmonious blend of classic design and modern cuts deeply embedded in our style choices. While rooted in tradition, our approach to wearing these pieces evolves — mixing formal jackets with casual T-shirts or pairing classic trousers with trendy sneakers reflects a modern sensibility.
This fusion of timeless elegance and contemporary flair allows for personal expression while honouring sartorial heritage. Iconic pieces like the Bandhgala continue to stay relevant by adapting to new contexts, embodying the multifaceted nature of modern fashion.
Men, now, are being edgy in their fashion, they don’t want to blend in the crowd, they are wearing floral prints shirts at workplace, earthy tones and dusty pinks, they are wearing baggy pants and jackets, stripes are making a return, and opting for minimalist fashion. Is Raghavendra Rathore building a line to cater to the new Indian man?
Raghavendra Rathore Jodhpur embraces the evolving landscape of men’s fashion, where the modern Indian man seeks to balance boldness with subtlety. The brand has always celebrated individuality through customised designs, allowing our clients to express their unique style while maintaining an air of elegance.
While our foundation lies in the classic sphere, we recognise the experimental yet refined fashion choices. Our bespoke service ensures that each piece is tailored to the client’s vision, combining the timeless with the modern flair, thus embracing holistic aspects of fashion.
At RRJ, we don’t just follow trends; we craft garments that resonate with personal identity and enduring style. Whether it’s a modern twist on tradition or a bold new look, we provide a sartorial experience that speaks to the new Indian man — and beyond.
One current trend in menswear that should be written off and one that should be praised. What colours and textures are in now?
The oversized look needs to be carefully incorporated or else it can backfire terribly while classics are always in-vogue. A dark purple with an underlying hue of blue, subtle sheen and self-texture can be a strong trend.
In these 30 years, which celebrity have you enjoyed the most dressing up and who has given you the heebie-jeebies?
The essence of a true bespoke brand lies in discretion and confidentiality. We uphold the highest standards of privacy, keeping our clients' visions, preferences, and unique requests strictly within our atelier. This unwavering commitment to discretion is not just a business practice, but an integral part of the ultimate Raghavendra Rathore Jodhpur experience.
Bollywood celebrities, more than others, have been the billboards for fashion designers in our country. In the age of social media influencers, do you see that trend waning?
Modern technology has transformed how we express our personal stories and styles, giving the fashion industry unprecedented reach. Social media and digital tools have democratised fashion, enabling everyone to showcase their unique style. This trend is set to grow as emerging technologies like 3D printing, AI-driven design, and virtual fitting rooms evolve. Today’s customer base and audience will certainly look at a wider diaspora of fashionistas, style icons and trend setters while the Bollywood celebrity quotient will remain omnipresent there is no denying new breed of influencers and the impact they have.
Which celebrities did you dress up for the Anant-Radhika Ambani wedding?
The brand had the privilege of creating bespoke looks for a diverse array of guests attending the wedding. From the immediate and extended family to friends and distinguished guests from various fields such as entertainment, business and leadership, both from India and overseas, many were seen in RRJ designs. Some of the notable personalities were former UK Prime Minister Tony Blair, financier James Rothschild, actor Barron Hilton, filmmaker Vidhu Vinod Chopra, and Bollywood stars such as Shahid Kapoor, Ibrahim Ali Khan, Javed Jaffrey, and Meezaan Jaffrey.
How would you dress up a regular Indian man for weddings, other than in Sherwanis? Given the small physique of average Indian men, what would look good on them?
An individual’s size does not dictate their fashion style. Rather, it’s the proportions that stylists and designers work with that adds immense value to one’s personality, whether for a wedding or wardrobe restyling. The key to selecting a good look for yourself lies in three crucial elements: fit, cut, and proper proportions, especially in jacket lengths. These factors, when expertly balanced, can enhance any body type and personal style, ensuring that the wearer looks and feels their best in any setting.
How can an average man change his wardrobe on a regular day, from workwear to casual wear? And what are some of the must-haves in a man’s wardrobe?
A truly effective wardrobe offers a multitude of combination possibilities. Whether dressing for a casual lunch, a business meeting, or an elegant cocktail party, the pieces in your closet should work together to create diverse looks. The key lies in versatility, with each item capable of being mixed and matched to exemplify contrasts in style, colour, and texture. This approach ensures that your overall appearance is always polished and appropriate, regardless of the occasion, while allowing for personal expression through fashion. The classic Bandhgala is an ideal example of this that can be paired with formal trousers to dress it up or combined in a chic manner with denim to dress it down yet maintain a smart casual look.
In a recent video, actor Gulshan Devaiah is seen wearing a pearl necklace and he slays that look. Men are increasingly experimenting with accessories beyond just the watch and cufflinks. They are wearing more jewellery, whether a chain, bracelet, rings or stud. What are some of the must-have accessories for men to pair with daily-wear?
The beauty of inherent style lies in its effortless flow. A person with true style should be able to seamlessly match all their accessories with a basic look, such as denim jeans paired with a white shirt. Every element — from the shoe choice and pant length to bracelets, necklaces, sunglasses, and even the cologne — should harmoniously tie in with the options available in one’s wardrobe. This cohesive approach to dressing ensures that even the simplest outfit becomes a polished, personal statement, reflecting the wearer’s innate sense of style and attention to detail.
And what about shoes. What’s a trendy must-have pair for all occasions?
Burgundy, tan, dark velvet tones are the new trending colours in shoes. But an all-time must have is a white pair of sneakers that you can effortlessly match with denims, leisure wear and even a casual suit.
This April, you launched the Raghavendra Rathore Summer/Spring 2024 collection, with the theme of recycling and reinventing classic styling. What will Raghavendra Rathore Autumn/Winter 2024 collection look like?
The upcoming season will be defined by rich textures and dark tones with subtle tone-on-tone variations. We’ve crafted over 500 unique designs, featuring innovative textures and intricate embroideries that add a tactile dimension to each piece, creating visual interest and luxury.
Our collection embraces this textural richness, offering a sophisticated palette that plays with depth and contrast.
This focus on texture and tonal variations provides versatile styling options, setting a new standard for elegant, multidimensional fashion. RRJ designs cater to those who value nuanced sophistication and the interplay of texture, colour and most importantly cut.
Many fashion brands face flak globally for exploiting workers. What are some of the fair-work practices embedded in the culture of Raghavendra Rathore Jodhpur? And during COVID, how did you support your working staff?
At Raghavendra Rathore Jodhpur, we are committed to fair labour practices, ensuring our artisans work in safe environments with fair wages and essential benefits. During the COVID-19 pandemic, we prioritised our staff’s well-being by maintaining full salaries, offering healthcare and mental health support, and enforcing strict safety protocols. Our brand’s strength lies in our people, and we believe that a culture of fairness and respect is essential to fostering creativity and craftsmanship.
What does the Raghavendra Rathore Foundation do? And how does fashion work with NFTs (non-fungible tokens), which has been associated with art until now?
The Raghavendra Rathore Foundation serves as a moral compass for our luxury lifestyle brand, integrating social responsibility into our core mission. It provides opportunities for individuals with limited access to resources to discover their creative potential, ensuring they have a place in our brand’s story.
Simultaneously, we maintain a forward-thinking approach to technology. Our leadership in areas like Artificial Intelligence and non-fungible tokens stems from my personal passion for technology and background in robotics. It is remarkable to witness the evolution of technology into an omnipresent force in our daily lives, bringing our brand full circle with innovation at its core.
This dual focus on social impact and technological advancement defines our brand’s unique position in the luxury fashion landscape.
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